Curing a sloppy gear change + Shorty Gear lever

The problem?
When I first got my 10 year old MGF it had the sloppiest gear change I had ever seen in my life :nonod: trying to find a gear at all was a challenge at first, but if you're a bit practical this is not a hard thing to cure and as you're reading this section then believe me you can do it.

Tools needed:
10mm socket, long extension, 10mm spanner, 7mm spanner

The Fix
After lifting the trim surrounding the gear gaiter you will see the mechanism used to transfer your gear selection to the gearbox.



In photo above you can see two of the three nuts which you need to tighten. The third one, the one towards the rear of the car just out of shot. It is a little difficult to reach. I used a socket on a long + short extension pieces and put it through the hole under the arm rest and removed the ashtray to help guide it towards the nut.



It is possible to over tighten the nuts so before you pack everything away take it for a spin and make sure you're happy with it. After adjusting mine it became a pleasure to drive and gear selection became crisp and precise.

Now you can put the tools away and go for a drive and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done as you should now have crisp precise gear selection :whistle: :lol: :lol:

Now you've done a practical job, interested in a cosmetic mod in the same area?

The case for change:
I had always thought the gear lever in the MGF was too tall and wanted a shorter gear lever.

The finished shorty gear leaver



Tools needed:
Large sheet or black bin bag (actually the colour is unimportant :silly: ) Hacksaw with metal blade, mole grips (or similar), 12mm drill bit, electric drill, flat head screw driver.

The fix (You may need to slightly modify these instructions as this was done on my MK2 MGF):
Remove the gear knob by twisting and unscrewing.
Put the car into 2nd gear ( or any one which you find to be a comfortable position, that sounds odd :oops: , I mean so its a comfortable position for you to reach whilst sawing through it ) and then spread the sheet or bin bag around the lever to catch the metal shavings. Next, using the mole grips to hold the gear lever steady and cut off the top of the gear lever, leaving about 8 ~ 10mm of thread.

OK that sounds easier than it is because you're sitting twisted and it takes longer to saw through the lever than you first anticipated, so after doing this liquid refreshment is advisable :yesnod: .



Depending on your knob you will have to adjust things to make yours fit
Now we move to the gear knob itself. The lower part of the lever shaft is wider than the threaded section so you need to drill out the lower section of the gear knob to get it to go over it. I drilled it out so that the top of the gear lever actually reaches the underside of the top of the knob, you'll need to check as I don't remember the exact depth but remember to leave the last 10mm inside the top of the knob untouched so you can screw the knob on.

Nearly there, all you have to do now is cut down the gear gaiter.



The gear gaiter is held by a ring which needs to be unclipped from the gear surround (use the screw driver to release the four clips. Cut off 3cm of the gaiter and reassemble. I used a cable tie to keep the top of it against the gear knob. Clip the whole thing in position and go for another drive and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done as you should now have crisp precise gear selection made by a short shifting gear lever :whistle: :lol: :lol:

This is the exact fix I am looking for! 2 questions 1) my gear stick has a slightly different surround ( more of a flat plastic panel - so how does this pop out. 2) how did you get the ashtray out, i think mine is glued in, it doesn't want to budge.

Tourbillon wrote: This is the exact fix I am looking for! 2 questions 1) my gear stick has a slightly different surround ( more of a flat plastic panel - so how does this pop out. 2) how did you get the ashtray out, i think mine is glued in, it doesn't want to budge.

:lol: Hi again, see you've popped over from the Register.

OK, since I only have experience of the MK2, being an MGF newbie, I cannot answer Q1), someone will be on here shortly to help you with that, but as to Q2) the ashtray is a very tight fit and you have to push it towards the rear of the car whilst lifting the end near the front up. The tray is held in by two spring lugs on each end of it.

Thanks, I have now carried out a search on Mk1 Console removals and found that the way to get under the gaiter to the bolts you mention. I am now off to Halfords to get some stereo removing tools to get that out prior to pulling the dash. I can now see why the changed the design for Mk2!

Thanks to PQD44 i now have firm, tight shifting and a shorty gear stick :lol:

Longest job on a MK1 was getting the dash out... also due to the Kenwood head unit removal tool was wrong ( Halfords expert - don't trust them).

Onto the next task of cold air enclosure for K & N

Tourbillon wrote: ...... i now have firm, tight shifting and a shorty gear stick :lol:

:woohoo: Tourbillon, I know how you feel and isn't it good to do a job and after it really see and a feel a difference AND all for the grand cash total of £0.00 :woohoo:

Superb guide by Paul (PQD44) on this problem. Rob Bell took inspiration from this guide and produced his own. That read is attached here, courtesy of Rob Bell. For further info on the subject, read more by clicking here.

Mike Satur did the slickshift and Bell Crank Assembly jobber for just this problem. Although alot of people dont really get on with the whole package just fitting the uprated Bell Crank Assembly is enough in most cases to tighten up the gear selection.


For the F
Bell Crank Assembly Upgraded MGTF - Mike Satur


For the TF
Bell Crank Assembly Upgraded MGTF - Mike Satur


I'm a lucky one that still has a decent feel to the gear selection but that doesn't stop me almost pressing the purchase button just so I have something else to tinker with......

My Mk1 as the latest Satur Slik Shift & Bell Crank fitted and its fabulous. I had fitted the Mk1 Satur Kit years ago which I felt was a worthwhile improvement over the original but the latest version is fabulous. Well worth the trouble of installation.

Murray
Brisbane - Aus

Undoubtedly the Mike Satur Kit is good, however it cost over £220 and if you are not a good DIY mechanic you will have to pay to have it fitted.

I believe that many people have purchased this kit when it was not necessary and simply tightening a couple of nuts or as Rob Bell pointed out just changing one washer could have you slick shifting for free or a few pence.

Still you pays your money (or not as the case may be) and you makes your choice :thumbsup:

This was a great help, mine was very sloppy and thought it was something really worn, a quick tweak and jobs a good un!

Thank you

Will this fix my issue of getting from 1st into second? At low speed or revs it'd fine but pull away hard, and it just won't go in so my acceleration is halted