The problem?
You may get an advisory or a fail at MOT time for excessive play in the rear track control arm (the inner bush or the ball joint of the track rod end) or find it during the checks you do every couple of months
You notice that with the rear wheels off the ground you can feel some movement, in and out, when gripping the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.
Excessive wear in the rear track control arm can eventually be felt through the car which may feel 'slightly odd', with possibly judder felt from the rear or in the car during acceleration or braking. Uneven tyre wear on the rear may also be seen.
See Clive's How To for
steering checks
In my case the movement was in the ball joint at the end of the track arm. When trying to purchase a replacement a call to my local motor factors revealed the MGF rear track control arm, part No. RGZ100050, is priced at between £100 and £254 depending on where you ask. The ball joint on this component is described as non-serviceable and does not appear on their parts lists.
A quick search on the internet reveals suggestions that the front track rod end off the Rover 200 will fit the track control arm. £6.50 later a Rover 200 track rod end is purchased ready for the job.
If lateral movement is found in the
inner bush new replacements can be purchased for about £20 - £30. The cheapest I found was from a company called Temple Tuning who advertise as ‘Fuel Pumps Online. The part No. is PFR42-220 MGF Rear Inner Track Control Arm Bush.
Click here to go directly to their website
EDIT: I just found the same bushes at a cheaper price
Click here £35.81 inc VAT for both sides
Tools needed:
Ball joint splitter (I would recommend the scissor type), Axle stands, trolley jack, wheel chocks, Torque wrench, sockets 15mm and 17mm, adjustable wrench
The Fix:
Chock the front wheels then raise the rear side of the car to be worked on. Having secured the car on axle stand(s), remove the wheel. Penetrating oil can now be applied to the areas to be worked on.
Release the nut off the end of the track rod end, TRE.
You now need to use the ball joint splitter to separate the arm from the hub.
As shown in the photo above the order of work is;
To remove the old TRE, use a spanner or monkey grips hold the threaded bar in place. Slacken off the locking nut next to the TRE. Still gripping the threaded bar then unscrew the TRE.
Screw the replacement TRE in place.
Fit the TRE bolt through the hole in the hub then using a torque wrench on the new locking nut tighten to 30Nm.
Go back to the other end of the TRE and tighten the locking nut on the threaded bar up to the TRE.
This photo shows the new and old TRE's side by side. I checked all the relevant measurements and the two are identical from a functional point of view.
Inner Bush Replacement.
If replacing the inner bush of the track control arm is needed I would also replace the TRE at the same time, as for the sake of £6.50 it is worth the peace of mind.
Remove TRE locking nut, release TRE as above then remove the bolt securing the track arm to the subframe.
Replace the bush and then reassemble using a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 80Nm.
NOTE: There should be some rotational movement of the track control arm.
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT must now be checked and adjusted if necessary after replacing either the TRE or inner bush.