Topic

MGF Cross Brace fitting

Before you start you need a few things done.
1. Have upgraded the front/front subframe mounts to solid TF mounts, this mod does not make any difference if you have the rubber mounts.
2. You have replaced the front/rear sub frame mounting bolts, if these are flaky then the chances are you will snap them in the fitting process, or you will rip them out tightening the assembly in place.
3. Buy 2x 12.9 zinc coated replacements for the subframe mounts 10mm longer than original (35mm), 2 x 12.9 zinc coated 40mm bolts (8mm) selection of 8mm nyloc nuts and varying washers 3 big 5 small (minimum requirements)
4. Get a decent 10mm drill bit!

This is what the cross brace looks like, I got mine powder coated from MGFandTFbitz. I used a loose fixing through the middle to help measure up the holes, (one of the subframe mount bolts I later replaced)

1. Remove the rubber subframe air dam, 3 bolts 8mm head 10mm nut. These are rusty and a **** to get to, I found if I bent the airdam towards the front of the car and then sqirted in a load of penetrating oil they loosened with ¼ socket drive on small extension on the inside and socket with small extension on the outside.
2. Crack off the inside screws on the rear/front subframe mounts, then remove screws slide the loosely bolted x-brace up over the top of the anti-roll bar and then insert the new longer screws holding the brace in place loosely.
3. Offer up the x-brace to the subframe and mark the holes for drilling, should be on a spur of the subframe going towards the front of the car.
4. Remove the x-brace and drill holes where you marked earlier.

You can see where I didn’t punch a decent mark to start drilling and scratched the paint….
5. I noticed that x-brace fouled the subframe mount so introduced it to Mr Angle grinder and problem went away.
6. Now replace the x-brace and bolt up, start with the rear, then the front and finally the X in the middle. I used washer under the x-brace and washer on top at the Mount end. Then bolt,washer, subframe, washer, x-brace, big washer, nyloc on the front.


7. Then tighten up the middle bolt

8. Now offer up the subframe air dam and replace, you will need to hacksaw in some small notches to go over the x-brace to allow it to bolt up flush to the subframe.
Job done!

Now the dilemma, with it in place now, there is no central fixing as in the TF to the spare wheel well. I don’t know how much this could impact the stiffness so I investigated bolting it up to the wheel well. This involves putting a longer bolt through and some packing pieces on the top of the brace and inside the wheel well, reversing the bolt so it comes down from above. I wasn't happy with this approach as even with packing pieces in I was bending the floor of the wheel well. I don’t know how much this component will move, (less than a couple of mm, you hope!) but still felt it needed more beef. Therefore I can either leave it as is or get the welder out and strengthen the floor and then weld a bracket to bolt the x-brace to, I will leave it for now and think how best to address it, maybe just bolting a bracket on.
Does it make any difference? Don’t really know yet as I haven’t had the time to take a spirited drive  I will post an update on this.

TB

A worthwhile mod..

Just the under dash one and engine bay ones to fit now

Thanks DD, i'll add it to the list.

TB

PM me your address mate.. I'll send you the two for the engine bay.. I have a spare pair.. Just needs a bit of angle fitting to the fire wall

The under dash one needs two brackets welding in though.. Happy to do it for you if you come to me.. With the brace..

Allan,

Thanks for this, I will PM you.

N

That's very nice of you Allan.

Another superb guide there Neil. I'll add it to the how to guides. Much appreciated.