Gear cables - How to Change.

I used a smear of poly bushing grease as I had some on hand but any waterproof grease should do as it's mainly to stop your balls from getting rusty :ohmy: .

I could have done with that advice a few years ago (ooh err matron!) :lol:

Laz1957 wrote: I could have done with that advice a few years ago (ooh err matron!) :lol:

According to your profile I am 3 months older than you.
With age comes wisdom.

OK - I now have gears again :thumbsup:

However, the backplate is a mess

It needs a slight adjustment, as the gear knob is a bit too forward. Is it possible to adjust this from the gearbox end as well as the gear lever end?

This was the first time it's been driven with the new TT Mk4 exhaust, which was fun :woohoo:

Not sure what to do about the backplate though

Hate to say this, but i would get one of those lovely Lazer cut stainless steel ones like wot Clive got. :rant:

It is possible to adjust the front end of the cable from the back. Loosen off the cable end locknut on the front. Make sure the cable end locknut on the back is tight. Pop the cable end off the ball at the back and rotate it to adjust. Be very careful not to wind the threaded bit of the cable right out of the cable end at the front, although if you do it is possible to reattach it without taking everything apart (Yep, I did it!) One thing to keep in mind is that the cable travel is limited internally to about 1" travel, so you don't have a lot to play with.
After getting everything back together yesterday I went for a really nice test drive along the river. All forward gearsworked great but reverse was hard to engage with grinding.
I figured that one turn of adjustment would sort it out as it was very close. Today, anticipating a quick half hour fix I had at it and ended up trying every possible combination of adjustments. That's when I found out about the internal travel limit and also when I found out that my gearlever assembly is knackered. The combination of wear in the nylon bushing that converts the vertical movement of the cross gear assembly to back and forth movement for the cable, and wear in the shift lever bushing where it sleeves over the cross gear rod causes the counterweight to foul on the cables. There really is very little clearance under there so the accumulation of small amounts of wear creates a problem. To top it off the excess play also meant the gearlever fouled on my nice new MK II gearlever surround :rant:
The net result is I'll be driving the old rattletrap TR until I come up with enough cash for a slickshift. (Which should solve the problem he says optimistically)

Cheers,
Rich

Oh wow Rich not good news at all :nonod:

Were you driving without the backplate and, if so, did you do anything to fill the gap at the back of the transmission tunnel?

I just left the closing plate off and noticed no difference at all. I'm sure all it does is provide a seal for fumes.
As mentioned earlier I am considering just stuffing a plastic bag with bits of fireproof insulation (I will have to talk nicely to the plumbers at work) and pushing it into the tunnel from the cubby. If it ever reaches the stage where flames are coming through that hole I will either be sprinting away from the car or will already be a goner. :silly: (Knock on Wood!)
Has anyone talked nicely to Clive to see if he can get more of his stainless plates made?

I did wonder about closing the tunnel from the inside.:shrug: Maybe something a little more resistant to heat and fumes than a plastic bag though, Rich.:rofl:

OK then! A Fireproof plastic bag!

Give a man a whistle and see what happens!

Transferred this into the How tos. :yesnod: