Gear cables - How to Change.

Oh my! Maybe I should do a disclaimer! :ohmy:

My backplate is only partially on due to being 'slightly' mishapen :lol:

Just had a good run and when we got back noticed that the box under the armrest was a bit warm (not hot, just warm) so heat is getting in from the back.

However there was no fumes just a bit of heat, so I reckon some suitable insulation will do the trick.

I have also been giving this whole palaver a bit of thought and think I may have an easier alternative to the way to tackle this, altough the method still needs a bit more work.

Based on what I have read and on seeing how this all works I think it is reasonable to presume that the the long cable very rarely fails, as it is under substantially less stress than the lower cable, as side to side movement of the gear lever is much shorter than the forward/backward movement to change from 1st to 2nd etc.

So, if the failure is the shorter cable then this method would work quite well on it's own or you could use the same for the long cable as well if you want to.

So here goes

1. remove transmission tunnel and engine inspection hatch

2. disconnect both ends of the broken cable

3. cut the broken cable in half and remove, including the rubber grommet in the back plate.

4. buy one of these:

25mm Drill Bit

5. get someone to look at the backplate and position the bit in the hole where the cable was and very carefully drill it out to the full extent of the bit. This only makes the hole a little bigger but is sufficient for the collar at the end of the cable to fit through (I think).

6. thread the new cable from the back to the front of the car and reconnect.

7. pack hole to allow the grommet to fix back in place in the backplate.

The problems still to be solved with this method are:

a) is it possible to extend a drill to get the bit into the hole in the back plate via the transmission tunnel?

b) what would be th best way to fix the grommet into the larger hole?

If these 2 issues can be resolved I reckon a cable change would be much easier, as removing the backplate is the thing that causes all the problems. The only downside is the slightly larger hole in the backplate, which I think would be preferable to the situation both Rich and I ended up with with ours.

What do you think guys?

Sounds feasible, but what's in number 4? I'm not getting anything?
edit - Sorted. One of these.

Laz1957 wrote:

The problems still to be solved with this method are:

a) is it possible to extend a drill to get the bit into the hole in the back plate via the transmission tunnel?

b) what would be the best way to fix the grommet into the larger hole?

a/. My Dremel (type) toolkit has an extending flexi shaft that could work to do this.:shrug:

b/. Would that be critical? Or would a splodge of sealant do?

You could be onto a winner here Larry! :yesnod: :thumbsup:
It'll be interesting to hear other people's comments. :yesnod:

Sounds good David but would the Dremel extension chuck accept that size bit?

I think sealant would do the trick for sealing the hole but what would be the best to use considering heat issues?

Be interesting to see what Rich has to say about this

Laz1957 wrote: Sounds good David but would the Dremel extension chuck accept that size bit?

I think sealant would do the trick for sealing the hole but what would be the best to use considering heat issues?

Be interesting to see what Rich has to say about this

When I think about it, I also have a normal drill flexi-extension so that probably would take it. I think any decent sealant should be Ok. Maybe use a liquid gasket type as that would definitely take the heat.

You need to know the max diameter of the cable for certain to drill the right size hole, though.:shrug:

That sounds like a good alternative to taking the plate off and doing the job the traditional way.
The snag I see is that there is no way a Dremel would have the power to run a 25mm bit through steel, particularly with the hole being drilled out having a notch in one side. That would tend to trap the cutting edge of the bit and stop the motor dead.
If you could fit a compact battery drill in the space available you may be able to drill out the hole using this type of bit Irwin Step Drill

We use them at work (locksmith) for enlarging holes in metal and they really are the only way to go as they enlarge the hole in increments if 1mm or so at a time and don't catch like a normal bit.
One question...Could it be that the heater pipes were generating the heat you felt on the armrest?
I am back at work tomorrow and will see what our plumbers have that could seal/insulate the hole.

I've made a quick measurment with a ruler and it looks to be about the right size. It's most probably 1", so it would be 0.4mm bigger that the bit, which I am sure would work allowing for a little 'chatter' when the bit goes through the plate

How about something like this?:- FLEXIBLE/FLEXI DRIVE DRILL SHAFT (tool for car / home ) Completed

Rich - that's a very interesting bit but it looks a bit long for the space between the backplate and the engine, which it would be going into.

I think you are right about the heat coming from the pipes :yesnod:

David - that flexible drive shaft could well do the trick :thumbsup:

The bits are actually rather short, probably projecting about 50mm from the chuck.
We work on a lot of metal doors and find they are ideal for enlarging existing holes as each increment only takes out a couple of mm of material so don't need as much power to get through. With a light touch they tend not to hang up on keyhole shapes like those on the closing plate.