Gear cables - How to Change.

Sounds good then - I'll try and source one in the UK

I ordered a Mike Satur Slick-Shift kit today to replace my worn out shift mechanism and will do an addition to the how-to for the Slick-Shift...Watch This Space! :woohoo:

I can't get in to edit the How-to any more but here is an additional pic showing the method of attaching the ball ends using channel lock pliers. Works a treat!

Hello all, 1st post. :yesnod:

Gear Selection Cable :rant: , Yes it broke and I've spent time assessing whats wrong (2 weeks) deciding on part to order (1 week), Ordering and delivery (4 day's via international post) :thumbsup: 1/2 price compared to local supplier :blink:
Installing (2 day's of 8 hr's)

Of course its never 1 thing that goes wrong, driving home in stuck gear, my brakes seemed to have seized up.

Time taken to assess that problem (3 weeks, same time as Gear cable), Fixing (1 week,)

Reason for times;

1) I have to fix 1 problems while unfixing another.
2) I start on 1 problem, do another and forget original problem.
3) Inability to recognize Original problem.
4) Spent 2 day's trying to take off cover plate below gear selection, under car, stripped 4 bolt heads, gave up and realized was wasting my time.
5) Procrastination....and reading posting on how to fix.

Jobs done;

1) Gear selection cable installed, configured, driven (seized brakes), re-configured and gears deselected.
2) Brake callipers, removed, dismantled, installed 3 times, only on 3rd time was seizing return spring fixed. ( Still returned 1-2 centimetres) Now does full 1/4 turn as should.
3) Drained the coolent out and re-filled. (done before, had to replace a split hose)
4) Got cover plate off, WITH OUT destroying, but tried to take of larger outer plate as well, NO NEED TOO :pinch:


Problems found with doing this job; :omg:

1) Wheel hub only held on by 1 screw on rear passenger side (caused a :rant: )
2) Said wheel hub is loose slightly, assume big locking nut in centre.
3) Cleaned out lots of brake dust from both hubs.
4) Found front wheels, were both down to steel banding on inside of wheels ( :sick: , lucky hey) but tread on out side, drive with proper inflation on wheels people.
5) Clevis pin, NOT attached through release rod, to slave cylinder, but had release rod located BELOW it, easy fix I thought, just move up thread clevis pin through, but no!!!!, can't get gears.!!!! :rant: Don't know how long, or why ??

End result;

1) Money saved, hundreds in not more.
2) Weeks spent lifting car onto jack stands, ramps, getting dirty and looking busy
3) Bleed clutch 3 times, thinking, "hey no power in gear, its the clutch", but NO :nonod: , its actually seized brakes.
4) Bleed brakes, didn't need to do, unscrewed piston from brake, (again no need)
Spent 2 hr's assembling calliper and pad assembly (tried virtually every way but correct way)
5) Removed Gear lever assembly, dismantled, put back together and re-installed, then proceed to over tighten nut at rear of unit and break it totally. (I left washer off) :ohmy:
6) Learnt much about repair, got grease, oil and muck over service manual (yes bought that too, money well spent)
7) More confident about repairs, yes I take longer, Yes I'm not sure, but I'll have a go, I'll eventually get there and actually DO THE JOB. :rant: , yes been bitten.

OH yeah, lastly, Trying to replace the cable only, not the outer housing. Cheap to have cable made, with threaded ends on either end, yes. :thumbsup: 1,000 kg breaking point, guaranteed.

Try feeding said new cable through the rubber housing, :nonod: threaded ends are too large to fit.

Perceived solution, thread through WITHOUT threaded end and crimp after threaded. Hmmmm

I thought about it, and decided (correctly it seems), that you COULDN'T get enough pressure to correctly crimp the end threaded through, via hand, as you need to get car up onto work bench to use a proper press. Oh turn it on its side while your at it :bust: Oh well Cheap try.

Seems a person here, Goes my the Initials of Rich in Vancouver Made a post about buying a commercial product bought through a supplier, (personally don't know so can't/won't say) failed due to in-proper crimping at Gear stick end.

Welcome Aboard!

If you can tackle the gear change cables nothing else you encounter on your MGF will ever be as bad!
It sounds like your car is new to you. At least you have got a few jobs taken care of now.
In my first six months with my F I replaced the shift cables, shifter, brakes all round, clutch hydraulics (less Master),
one track arm, suspension bushings, tires and a bunch of other stuff I can't remember!
I'm hoping to do a bit of driving now that it's in reasonable shape.

Cheers,
Rich

BTW: Where are you from? It sounds like you are as far away from the parts sources as I am, although if you do have some local parts sources that points to Oz.

Thanks , sorry to have just shafted you with an edit, forgot that Clevis pin bit :omg: YEAH OMG when I saw it.

Trouble is now, I'm having trouble getting gears PERIOD.

I've Driven the car, with seized brakes. (yes, I didn't know, only drove 10 km's to try out)

It'll shift into gears, both at stick end, and under car when I move the arm. but won't engage the clutch.

I know its NOT the clutch, (bleed 3 times), its not the brakes ( partial seizure and fixed)

I think, and I can't see why it does, but with Release lever to slave cylinder, trapped BELOW the clevis pin, to hold it in place, it gave me gears. Fit correctly, according to MGF Work shop manual, gear box, repairs, Page 7 step 16 (yes manual on desk in front of me.) it won't engage.

Friend has said, maybe it the only way they could get it to work?? BUT ITS WRONG!!! WRONG WRONG WRONG!!! I tell you. P.S. perversely it actually worked.

That is strange!
The clutch shaft does rotate doesn't it? They are known for siezing in the alloy of the bellhousing.
Other than that, if you are getting full travel on the slave I'm not sure what's going on.