How to get a better fitted hood by Mindy

All the credit goes to Mindy for this and from the original post (http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/88844-how-to-get-a-better-fitted-hood#117147):

How to adjust hood so no more daylight/wind noise.

Its been a little pet hate of mine since having the car, that little gap behind the seats, where the hood doesn't quite fit the body properly.

Daylight and wind noise.


You can see the gap middle right of the picture. Its the same on both sides.

So today I fancied a little tinker, I put on a brake servo bracket, and cleaned/polished the boot. Fitted a new induction pipe, as the tinfoil one from Halfrauds disintegrated. Sorted out an intermittent speaker, and decided if there was anything I could do with the daylight gaps.

At first I took the tbar off, loosened to two bolts that attacked the hood to the car and was hoping there was room for movement on the bolts, but no luck there.



You can see the 2 bolts in picture.

I sat a while and thought I'm damned if I going to put this back together without making a effort. So coffee and cig, and a brainstorm.



I had looked at these little fellows before, but I couldn't find a way to adjust. The bar with a ball joint at the bottom 2 adjustable sections and a ball joint at the top. So closer inspection needed.

The bottom ball joint (This is the same on both sides of the hood, PS and DS) has a bolt asttached to it, this will unscrew from the cast holder/part. I think it was a 13mm spanner I used.



Unscrew this so the adjuystable arm is free at the bottom, the using a 10mm? I tighten up all of the available adjustment. There are 2 nuts so two lots of adjustment.



In the pict I had tightened the bottom adjustment, do the same with the top section. After that a little loosening to get the thread to line up with the hole and whilst pushing down on that area of the hood, the bolt screwed back in. I had the back of the roof up and the front catches unlocked to ease things a little.



All tightened up on bar. ( can you see the daylight in the gap still)



Ready to screw back in.


No daylight, passenger side.... and no daylight drivers side.

Well done to Mindy, and to Ben for the migration. :broon:

just to add that this turnbuckle can be adjusted from the top too. If you look really closely you'll see a tiny spring clip that prevents the socket from coming off the balljoint. Removing this allows you to disengage the socket and lengthen/shorten the turnbuckle. Then reconnect the ball joint and refit the the spring clip. :yesnod:

Is it possible to adjust the turnbuckle without removing either the top or the bottom?

Thanks Ben for that, and David thanks for the easy version..lol
It kept me busy tinkering out in the sun for an afternoon, so I was happy.

while you're fiddling about in this corner, after youve adjusted the rod, peel back the rubber on the vertical (where the window goes up) face, and check the arc shaped metal support in the very corner, just beneath the hood material.
it has two little 'legs' poking through the frame which hold it in place, these become loose over time and reduce the tension and therefore the daylight gap increases.
shortening the rod increases pressure on this support, so ensure it is fitted tightly. :yesnod:

Dave Baird wrote: Is it possible to adjust the turnbuckle without removing either the top or the bottom?

Nope :nonod:

just to clarify - a pic (passenger side shown here)



the silver piece is the arc which connects the hood to the frame. if this isnt secure, then adjusting the rod (also shown) just moves the frame, but wont tension the hood material.

They must have got the hang by 2006 as ours has no gaps!
It's unlikely to have been tinkered with before as it was an elderly owner. Even older than Sue. :yesnod: