Bleeding brakes

Heh guys I need to bleed the breaks on my tf, I've never bled breaks before (nut I've bled my clutch) could anyone write me a quick guide? Or at Least let me know what order to do em in thanks

Adam-MGTF;4534 wrote: Heh guys I need to bleed the breaks on my tf, I've never bled breaks before (nut I've bled my clutch) could anyone write me a quick guide? Or at Least let me know what order to do em in thanks

Unless you have an easy-bleed kit, it's a two person job.
Firstly remove the top from the brake reservoir and top it right up.
Starting with the o/s/r bleed valve, you need to have a suitable spanner, a length of tubing and a container. Attach the tube to the bleed nipple and lead it into the container, loosen the bleed nipple and ask your assistant to depress the brake peddle to the floor. He/she should do it steadily and then hold the pedal down. When the peddle is fully down, assistant shouts 'down'. You then re-tighten the nipple. Tell him to release the brake pedal and shout 'up' when it's fully released.
Open the bleed nipple and repeat the down /up procedure until the fluid flowing through your tube is clear and bubble-free. This is why clear tubing and a clear container are best. During this procedure the assistant needs to check the level in the reservoir, and refill as necessary.

Once you are satisfied with that bleeding sequence, start the same procedure with the n/s/r nipple. Then the o/s/f and finally the n/s/f.

The assistant should finally try the brakes and hopefully report that the pedal feels good. Top up the reservoir to the correct level and replace the top.
Test drive the car using the brakes before you attain any speed to ensure that they are working.

Return to home and check that there are no leaks at the nipples.

Great explanation... only thing I would add is that if you have ABS then bleed PLENTY of clean fluid through even after bubbles have stopped as then you replace a large proportion of the stuff in the ABS unit too. Watch that reservoir though!

Fansatsic David! Great explination, would give positive feedback if i knew how lol

Click on the scales under their name.

Good all round explaination David.
One small (but important) point:-
Workshop Manual states.

" Bleed sequence (ABS & non ABS)

LH rear to RH rear
RH front to LH front

CAUTION:
Braking efficiency may be seriously impaired if wrong bleed sequence is used."

Your finger probably slipped on the keyboard.
Sorry for this.:frown:

Mike

KUON;4571 wrote: Good all round explaination David.
One small (but important) point:-
Workshop Manual states.

" Bleed sequence (ABS & non ABS)

LH rear to RH rear
RH front to LH front

CAUTION:
Braking efficiency may be seriously impaired if wrong bleed sequence is used."

Your finger probably slipped on the keyboard.
Sorry for this.:frown:

Mike

now im confuddled lol which is it?

Adam-MGTF;4574 wrote: now im confuddled lol which is it?

Go with the manual. That's the safest way.

in the garage we always bled the brake furthest from the reservoir first.

It may be that the n/s/r has a longer pipe length than the o/s/r.:dunno:

I think that as long as you do the back ones first, you should be OK.

KUON;4571 wrote: Good all round explaination David.
One small (but important) point:-
Workshop Manual states.

" Bleed sequence (ABS & non ABS)

LH rear to RH rear
RH front to LH front

CAUTION:
Braking efficiency may be seriously impaired if wrong bleed sequence is used."

Your finger probably slipped on the keyboard.
Sorry for this.:frown:

Mike

No problem, Mike.
I have never seen that in the manual, but if that's what it says, who am I to argue:dunno:
As I mentioned in the previous reply I have always used that sequence without incident including on the MG. I think the important thing is to get the long pipe lengths sorted before finishing with the shorter ones.