Jump start battery change.
- Leigh Ping
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My battery seemed to be a big old type. No idea exactly how old it was but it was leaking a bit of acid and the car was taking longer and longer to start in the morning. New battery ordered from fleabay for less than £50 quid, with a two year warranty.
The Old Battery. That's my good lady doing the battery swap. She loosened up the bolts slightly but didn't remove them from the terminals. I'm much better at photography and first aid than she is so I let her do the easy bit.
The New Battery with a few drops of rain on it. Don't forget to remove those plastic caps.
The problem I worried about was that I don't know my Kenwood radio code and disconnecting the battery would lock me out. A few people at Jans' BBQ said there was no way around this problem. Anyway, I figured that if I connected some 'jump leads' to the wifes' car, during the battery changeover, there would be constant power and the radio, sound system, whatever you prefer to call it, would not lock me out and require the code to get back in. A code I didn't have!
So [strike]we[/strike] she set about the task and connected the jump leads between the two cars. + Positive red lead to + positive red lead on each battery first. Then - Negative black lead to - negative black lead next.
Tipper wrote: Just a safety point if I may about changing batteries.. You should always disconnect the earth lead (-ve) first and reconnect it last. This avoids the possibility of a slipping spanner on the +ve terminal shorting out on any adjacent earthed metal parts/body. Shorted batteries can explode and cause serious burns!
Then with the jump leads still connected throughout the process my good lady removed the MGTF battery leads from their terminals but kept the jump leads, coming from her car battery, connected to them. The clamps were quite strong and they didn't pop off. You do have to take it slow though. Just in case they come lose and disconnect the current flow.
As she held the leads out of the way, I then lifted out the old battery and put in the new battery. With the jump leads still on, carefully connect the cars battery leads and tighten the nuts onto the bolts. When both are connected you can remove the jump leads. Secure any locking plates in place, start the car and see if it worked.
'The job's a good un!' :broon:
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- Gadget2466
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You build Computers that'll run the starship Enterprise but can't change a Battery ! :bang: :coat:
And then you get your missus to do it, and in the rain.... I wonder while you had her disconnecting the terminals while still connected the the other car, did you have her stand in a bowl of petrol while you and a Fag just to add to the risks!
How did you get away with it.....hat's off to you :beer:
Turned to the Darkside, K&N Apollo and extra bling fitted.52mm TB
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- Yellow Peril
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why not get any old pair of wires 'coloured' and connect to earth, anywhere even exhaust if you so desire from your charger,
and the pos,+ to the fusebox at the brown's entry point.
no huge cables, no chance of sparking or electrocuting your better half, Tut Tut!
I haven’t lost my marbles they are in a bag somewhere
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I bought a stainless steel one but it didnt clamp down correctly, only advisory I had on the MoT, battery insecure.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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- Leigh Ping
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Leigh you like to make a simple job harder, why not get any old pair of wires 'coloured' and connect to earth, anywhere even exhaust if you so desire from your charger, and the pos,+ to the fusebox at the brown's entry point.
To be honest, the quote above just lost me and I thought that my idea was as easy as it could get. It worked at least. Better pictorial 'how to guides' on any tips and tricks you may have are always welcome.
It's clamped down solid Petetf160. I was a bit concerned at first because the new battery is around a third of the size smaller than the old one. But there was another bolt hole under the battery. So no worries.
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petetf160 wrote: Did the same with my ZS for the same reason, did you (or the wife) put the battery clamp back on OK.
I bought a stainless steel one but it didnt clamp down correctly, only advisory I had on the MoT, battery insecure.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I presume your MoT wasn't recent. One of this years new test requirements is supposed to be a secure battery
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- talkingcars
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Next time get a "battery saver" from eBay, plugs into your cigar lighter and clips to the battery of the other car or the spare battery you have standing by.
Home to black Alfa Romeo 159 3.2 V6 Q4 ,green MGF VVC and red MG Maestro T16.
MG - the friendly marque.
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- John and Sue
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Maybe flip the sidelights on before starting to ensure a positive demand.
It will be all right in the end. If it isn't all right yet, then it is not yet the end..
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You should always disconnect the earth lead (-ve) first and reconnect it last. :spank:
This avoids the possibility of a slipping spanner on the +ve terminal shorting out on any adjacent earthed metal parts/body. :broon:
Shorted batteries can explode and cause serious burns!
Lecture over.
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- Leigh Ping
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