Starting Problem with Stealthbat
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"The bat" has been laid up in the garage for several weeks now.
I've been able to turn the engine over (approx 1/2 with final reving) & have her up & down just to adjust the "sitting position" of the wheels.
A couple of weeks ago I changed the battery and also put a new earth strap in, (securely fastened).
I've had the battery on trickle charge, (none cut out type - constant charge but with fuse as backstop). I've periodically checked the charge of the battery over this period with a meter and it reports that the battery is charged to 75%/100% charged, (all four cells seem fine). The meter also reports that the alternator is fine.
I tried to fire the engine up today, (with the trickle charger still conected to the battery) but nothing happend!
The key fob opened the door fine and dissarmed the immobiliser and when inserted into the ignition and turned on, all the lights came on and then went off with the exception of the battery and oil lights which stayed on!
When turning the key to fire the engine, I hear a very faint clicking noise comming from the engine compartment.
In the good old days I would have suspected a starter motor problem and would have tapped the motor with a hammer! (VW Beetle, Hillman Avenger, Fiat 132, Fiat 131, etc. This worked fine on all these cars!)
I don't want to batter "the bat" senseless and therefore I'm throwing this problem over to the forum for help.
Cheers!
Richard:confused:
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good luck mate
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- David Aiketgate
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- David
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Replied by David Aiketgate on topic Starting Problem with Stealthbat
Posted 14 years 10 months ago #6491Gos;6489 wrote: could well be a loose connection on the starter motor, happened to me once, green flag managed to get it started by wiggling the wire while I turned the key, then drove it to a local garage who sorted the connection.
good luck mate
Yep, I think Gos has hit the head on the nail.
Dodgy starter connections. The clicking will be the solenoid trying to operate.
The connections vary. Some are spade, some are nut and bolt type.
Either a connection will have worked loose, or has got corrosion on it.
Incidentally, unless your charger is a special starter/charger unit, you should disconnect it prior to starting the car. I believe you can easily fry the charger's internals.
David
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I'm intrigued about the earth strap. Why did you renew it?
Are you sure you cleared away all of the corrosion and oxidation in this area.?
I have come across a number of elec. problems due to weakesses in return earth paths, particularly high current usage such as the starter motor.
Try disconnecting the strap and wire brushing/ filing the contact area to a bright finish before reconnecting.
Hope this works.
Happy Christmas & New Year.
Mike
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If not I can come round after chrimbo and have a look if you want.
It sounds like lack of voltage at the solenoid. This can be down to bad/corroded connections at the starter, bad earth or flat battery.
You shouldn't leave a charger/optimiser connected when cranking the engine as it can damage it.
Let me know if you want a hand mate.
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As always, many thanks for all your thoughts and in partuclar, Clive's kind offer of practical help. Clive - I'm going to regard this matter as semi-urgent. Whilst "the bat's" garaged and out of the direct cold, I don't think that this work is an imperative this next week or so. I would obviously like to get the engine turned over and I promise I'll take you up on your offer, let's say mid/late January - subject to your schedule being able to fit me in of course. This will give you the chance to "stalk the bat in its lair!" & give me the chance to drool over your car, (and Oh yes! to meet you as well!!).
Mike, I changed the earth strap because the old one had been stretched at the clamp and in addition to the bolt on the clamp was only held tight by the use of another smaller bolt inserted vertically down into the collar between the clamp ring and the negative terminal of the actuall battery, (came with the battery when I bought the car back in August!!).
When bolting the strap to the body, I checked the bolt hole area for corrosion/oxidation and satisfied myself that the area was clean.
The car started spot on when I installed the new battery.
Daft question, if I have to replace any wiring to the starter motor - is this wiring readily available?
Clive, do you think I should bite the bullet and buy a new/second hand starter now, (Fleabay seem to have a good selection for between £25.00/£50.00)?
I'm going to rock the car, (baby!), later on today to see if this frees up the solinoid, (if that's the problem).
I'm off to get myself a drink now - something to do with the Christmas Spirit and the fact that I've finnished wrapping all the pressies and laying up the table - Woohoo!
Take care and my best wishes to you all as we approach "turkey fest", (did anybody see Rick Stein's "What to do with left over turkey bits" the night before last? Brilliant curry ideas).
Cheers!
Richard
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http://www.mymgcar.com/shop/product.php?productid=16437&cat=263&page=2
its a brand new genuine part and was cheaper than most re-con units i was getting quotes for, arrived in the post in 2 days as well!!
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Thanks mate!
Do you think that this will fit my 1996 (P) 1.8 vvc?
Cheers!
Richard
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