Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Cheers Sundance, I like it, plus, I have sunk so much money into it on mechanicals that it has become a labour of love.
Just a repaint and it would be sorted

Broke the hydro mount. :nonod: that was fun driving back, clunking when pulling away and a vibration so kept acceleration and speed as low as possible hopefully no extra damage done...

Might as well replace the lower one with polybushes while I'm at it, i suspect the rubber bushes have had it anyway, perhaps leading to extra strain on the other mount..?

Wash and brush up (MG, not me...) and final check this morning and orf for the MoT. Nothing maintenance wise this year for a change. Passed OK but with one annoying advisory: "very slight play in rear o/s wheel bearing" I'm burgered if I could feel any: mind you, the mechanic was more grease gorilla than monkey. Even he admitted it was very slight. I think they feel obliged to issue an advisory on an older car maybe.

I would watch that carefully, as I had the same, the bearing rapidly got worse and managed to yank the inner cv joint out of the gearbox !

Ta, hopefully not that bad but will keep an eye on it. had to change the n/s drive hub assembly at just over 30k, which was a dog- food-bad failure. Made a noise like an elephant being rogered by a roll of barbed wire.

What sort of car suffers such a major component fail at just 30k?

Answers on a postcard please...... :whistle: :hgf:

Today I finished getting the rear hubs and drive shafts off the car, lifted the body off the subframe and almost finished releasing the engine and gearbox.

Changed my front braided hose which had got trapped between the bump stop and upper arm. Luckily, it failed on my drive and not on the open road! I reckon that's another life lost. Checked the other side and that was routed the same way so I've now routed both sides well away from any suspension parts so all should be OK.

Also got round to fitting a new door handle to replace my broken one. Quite pleased with the paint match - not bad for a rattle can. Forgot how much of a pig of a job this is though - especially on the driver's door.

Fitted a FCCkit to my F. It is a Mike Satur spring conversion kit. The car is now driving and handling almost perfect :clap:
The new turrets was very hard to fit because my kit is a mrk 1 kit. The later kit has another design turrets wich is much easyer to fit. The upper suspension arms was a straight forward job;)

cairnsys wrote: .......Also got round to fitting a new door handle to replace my broken one. Quite pleased with the paint match - not bad for a rattle can. Forgot how much of a pig of a job this is though - especially on the driver's door.

Hi Robin . With regards the door handle being a pig of a job , I presume you mean getting the actual handle out of the door at least on the drivers side . I had the same trouble recently with mine and then I had the light bulb moment that we all get once in a while . If you look at the handle and the lock assembly , it's the lock that prevents you from removing and refitting the handle easily from the door . I found if you push the large circlip out of the groove that retains the lock and pull the lock out of the handle first , it makes the whole job much easier. Refitting is just a case of putting the circlip back fully in its groove and then you can refit the lock from the inside of the door . I presume that's how they must have done it on the production line . The lock simply pushes the circlip out of the way and locks into place when fully home . I know that photos would have made this easier to understand and if I ever get any chrome handles for my TF I will post some of the circlip and lock .

John .

Hi John

That’s exactly what I ended up doing after about 30 minutes puzzling how to get the thing out!

I found it quite difficult putting the lock back into the new handle and ended up easing the circlip out so that I could get the lock in.

Anyway all back together now.

I think you have use a bit of reverse logic in cases like this . You have to imagine how they did it on the production line , where speed is essential. The guys at Longbridge would struggle to do the jobs that us TF owners have to do without the knowledge of how they built these cars
. I worked for The London Taxi Co and found that talking to the guys on the line made life easier for me when dealing with cabbies with problems .
My lock had to be removed due to my Pektron issues , where my EKA wasnt being seen by the BCU . All of which are now thankfully resolved with the help of Paul Brown of Technozen.
Don't you just love our passion for these cars ? :bust:

John

Finished removing the rear subframe - if ever changing the subframe in situ it is so much easier if you disconnect all hoses, pipes, wires etc that pass under the front of the frame before you start.