Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

I ran the car from stone cold up to 90'.

The voltage through the probe showed a constant 0.50v at tickover and at 3500rpm, I am sure it should change slightly.

Also when running at high idle it showed the fuelling to be open loop, it should be closed loop once the probe is warm unless the car is accelerating hard.

Your lambda voltage graph should look like this.

Thanks David, I think it looks more like
____________________________

Just tested mine and got this reading....

talkingcars wrote: Thanks David, I think it looks more like
____________________________

lol

Installed a new glass rear window hood and frame on my wife's F that I bought from MGFnTFBITZ. Wow, they said it was like new and they were not kidding.

Nothing big for you guys really but I'm pretty chuffed...

The trim panel on my door card was hanging off. I bought some new clips and took it off yesterday to repair. Bit of a faff, but took the card apart, gave the leather etc a good clean, superglued in the new clips overnight and put it all back together again this morning.

Surprised at the lack of any sound deadening or plastic behind the door card so figure it's been on and off a few times in the past. Gonna be looking at a speaker upgrade in the new year if I've still got the car, so will be asking for some dynamatt aswell as speakers to be done.

Had to replace the rear track arms (long arms?) on my TF due to worn bushes. Bit of a pain as the left hand side bolt access was restricted due to the Catalytic converter being in the way. Fortunately I had a couple of spare gaskets in stock so the cat flange was unbolted and could then be pushed out of the way.



Usual tight bolts, but no problem for a good impact gun and a blowtorch!
A four wheel alignment after to get everything back on track - every pun intended!
The alignment did highlight a rear wheel slightly out of camber, which is not adjustable, so looks like my next job is a pair of adjustable rear short arms....think Rimmers are selling them at a very good price at the moment, but will see if Bitz will match the price first....
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RGD000570



While I was at it, added a tinny of Wynns to the oil to see if it would clear the slightly noisy valve ticking that usually occurs when the engine is at its coldest.



Sundance

That adjustable arm you highlight from Rimmers won't help the camber issue. It only effects the toe in/out.
As far as I know camber is not adjustable, unless by altering the ride height.

Surely if you alter both lower arms (rods) the long and short, an equal amount, and as the top is not adjustable and stays the same length, you will be adjusting the camber without affecting the toe-in or toe-out???

If either of the lower arms is adjusted more or less than the other then both camber and toe-in/toe-out are adjusted.

Its only if the lower arm the OP is talking about is fixed length that you will not be able to adjust camber!

Just questioning from geometry knowledge not practical experience

SundanceUK wrote:
While I was at it, added a tinny of Wynns to the oil to see if it would clear the slightly noisy valve ticking that usually occurs when the engine is at its coldest.

Was this effective? My engine (108,000 miles) is a bit tappety when very first started after a couple of weeks, even after an oil change.

BruceTF135 wrote:

SundanceUK wrote:
While I was at it, added a tinny of Wynns to the oil to see if it would clear the slightly noisy valve ticking that usually occurs when the engine is at its coldest.

Was this effective? My engine (108,000 miles) is a bit tappety when very first started after a couple of weeks, even after an oil change.

Will let you know, not had much chance to drive the car since and I imagine it will take a couple of hundred miles to mix in and do its magic in the oilways...

Sundance