Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

In my limited aeronautical experience, there is a 4degree angle,providing some downforce also as the car sits at 160mm off the floor there is still quite a large amount of air passing under the car, forcing this outwards will cause more of a vacuum pulling the car down by a smalll amount. The aerofoil sits at 110mm of the ground giving 10mm clearnce from speedbumps and kerbs. I tried doing some calculations but gave up after 5 minutes as the formulas just spiralled out of proprtion.

I would have thought fitting a splitter would be more beneficial than an aerofoil though!

Surely if you filled in all the gaps then it would create more downforce! (I only know (or think I know) what I have read!)

However i think the cosmetic benefits will be greater than the performance benefits, and as i said it does look good.

Peter

I thought about that and was thinking a splitter would only work best if the ground clearance was a lot less causing the higher air pressure under the car to assist in pulling it down. Currently you could slide a bus underneath the TF.... Then i thought i like to be different and like a challenge so made the aerofoil design, surely there must be a race engineer on here who could give some really good advivce over this. as I would be intrested in the technicality of it. It does make a big aesthetic improvement if nothing else.

I think it's quite complicated to calculate. To create aerodynamic down force I'd have thought you would need an 'upside down' aerofoil - one that creates relatively low pressure under it with higher pressure above it. However, that close to the ground I suspect ground effect will come into play too and act like a cushion. Creating an 'angle of attack' by pointing the foil downwards will undoubtedly cause down pressure but the air passing under the foil will probably stall and create extra drag. Still looking cool may be more important as I noticed while following a soft top Ka today with hoops.

Richard

And another addition, finally got the scoops on

Fitted a Brown & Gammon low level alarm. It works according to the static tests, light and buzzer working. Unlike my speedo (other post)

Fitted a pair of JBL Harman front speakers to a Sony head unit, sounds Amazing compered to the original set up :woohoo:

VVC - I unplugged the trickle charger, started it, pumped up the N/S/F tyre.
1.8i and TF - not seen either for over a week.

Looked at it again !


Whilst I wait for Jon Norris to work his magic on my sick TF.


:beer: :beer: Steve.

This week purchased a pair of rear top upper ball joints from mg obsession. :wave:

Removed wheel and gave it a good clean.inspected tyre and preasure.


Removed hub and fitted upper balljoint...then clean and fitted back on the car

on removing the abs sensor fom the hub..the bolt snapped...so drilled out broken bolt in hub and fitted a m6 helicoil........the old bolt was also stuck fast inthe sensor and housing itself....so that also had to be drilled out..

while the wheel was off i took the opertunity of checking the alternator belt tension...

Replaced the wheel .....will tackle the other side sometime soon and then get it tracked for the mot :wave:

I finally got fed-up with this today:



I mean the awkward access to the last 3 bolts holding the engine cover down if you have rear speakers fitted (which were an after thought). I know some people remove the T-bar every time but that's really tedious (see http://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/22-cjjs-guides/2169-engine-inspection-panel-how-to-remove)

So now my access now looks like this:



Yes, I've ditched the speakers. They were pretty crap anyway and I listen to my engine (and the bird song with the roof down), not my 'sound system'.

It's an easy job. You don't even need to remove the T-bar, just the 3 self tappers that double-up as studs for the hood cover (no2 cross-head) then the 2 bolts (10mm socket) that fasten the speaker bar to the car then the whole bar can be extracted rearwards and the wires unplugged.

After that you need to drill out the rivets (I used a 5mm bit) that hold the plastic bits to the metal bit (you need to put the metal bit back so that the T-bar is supported and there is something for the 3 self tappers to tap in to).





With the speaker boxes removed, I used a bit of black bodge tape over the back of the metal bit to tidy it up, then reinstalled it.



Some time ago I ditched the sound wadding and have just kept the top 'carpet'


Yes, it doesn't fit too well but you can hardly see it and ease of access is what's important to me.

Richard

There's no need to remove the T bar to access those three bolts.I use a 10mm ratchet spanner and slightly shorter bolts on my car.

10mm Combination Spanner Ratchet Wrench Open Ring Garage Mechanic DIY Car Van Completed