Door lock knackered...?

Some of you will have seen my thread where I’m having to replace my n/s window regulator, as the window seems to keep jumping out of the rails when fully down.

Coincidentally (??) the door lock has now started jamming in the locked position (it’s central locking), so it takes a lot of attempts to get the door to open. Do I really need to buy a new mech (they seem to be thin on the ground on eBay, and very expensive), or is there some known fault which can be addressed?

Ta

I stripped down my drivers side latch and was amazed at how it works. The drivers side is the command latch and has micro switches (3) to send signals to and from the Pektron ecu . The passenger side just has lock/unlock controls , both electrical and mechanical . Has the diagnosis on the lock been done by the same guy who did the regulator repair ....sort of repair ?
Sorry that's me being sarcastic.
John

sworkscooper wrote: Has the diagnosis on the lock been done by the same guy who did the regulator repair ....sort of repair ?

Aw, he’s brilliant, really – known him for decades. To be fair, he fitted me in the middle of a seriously busy day, and what he said seemed to make sense – he said the window had jumped out at the bottom, had no grease on it, so he greased it and got it back in.

He then asked me if the door had jammed too, as he hadn’t been able to open it at first – he jiggled it lots, and eventually it opened. So he didn’t really work on the lock.

I could book the car in in a week or so, and get him to take everything apart properly and perhaps find out what’s wrong – in the meantime, I was happy just to get the window back up so I didn’t have to cover it in tape again!

Used to be I’d slowly and meticulously take everything apart, study it, figure it all out, and probably fix it myself – sadly, now, my fingers shake a bit and the eyes aren’t what they were. Also, my garage is used as a massive store room, so I have to work outside. I know, I know… maybe some day…

Ok , so I have been thinking back to when I did my drivers door lock, and I seemed to struggle getting the latch back in place inside the door . In doing so I had manged to lock the latch but with the opposite door being unlocked , when I turned the ignition back on , it confused the system as when I tested the new lock it did unlock the door but at the same time the passenger door went to the lock position. In other words you have to sync both locks to the same lock or unlock state . Just make sure that when you lock with the fob , both door pins drop . It might be that you have had both latches in opposition to each other ( one locked while the other is unlocked ) Does that make sense ? It would have been easy for your mate to have accidentally locked the side he worked on while the drivers door was in the unlock position.
John

Anyway, managed to source some parts at fairly reasonable prices, so if I get some decent weather I'll have a go. Is there a guide anywhere to removing the regulator? Couldn't seem to find one...

https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/92793-how-to-change-a-door-lock-mechanism
Hi Hogweed. The above is the guide for lock removal .
Did you read my last post ? Are the locks on both doors locking and locking in unission / together ?
John

sworkscooper wrote: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/92793-how-to-change-a-door-lock-mechanism
Hi Hogweed. The above is the guide for lock removal .
Did you read my last post ? Are the locks on both doors locking and locking in unission / together ?
John

Sorry John, yes, I've read that guide several times - and found a Youtube fillum of somebody pulling the regulator out.

The locks work perfectly as they should, ie in sync etc - when the passenger door stops opening, you can't open it with the handle or anything - really feels like something is physically jammed - though a lifetime's experience teaches me that these things can be deceptive...

Ok , but just check that all the plastic securing clips are connected to the latch . I'm just a bit curious as to why the lock stopped working after the work was done on the window fault .
John

sworkscooper wrote: Ok , but just check that all the plastic securing clips are connected to the latch . I'm just a bit curious as to why the lock stopped working after the work was done on the window fault .
John

You and me both. And also why the reg isn't working properly, suddenly. I mean, John (the mechanic) was in a hell of a rush, and fitted me in quickly as an emergency between other jobs, so didn't really have time to expalin properly - also I figured hell, it's fixed, who cares...

All he really said was that the glass had come out of the runners, and that it only happened if I wound the window fully down. I don't know if that means the bottom or top of the glass comes out - and how the hell he got it back in again, becasue it all felt totally solid to me - couldn't budge anything. I'd sooner understand what I'm looking for, than jsut replace the reg, although I'll do that if necessary.

And I don't know enough about the internal architecture of the door to understand what could jam against what etc, and it's hard to see.

When it comes to the lock, by plastic clips do you mean like the red one in the guide, which holds an actuating rod in place?

Cheers

Yep , that's it . Do you think you and me having a chat may help ?
John

It might

Sorry had company till just now - rude of me to be opening the laptop every 5 minutes.

PM me your number when you feel bored, and let me know when would be best for me to ring - and thanks.

Roger

John, nice (and useful) to put the world to rights earlier

I’ll very likely do as I said, and wait till the MG/Rover guy is back from his honeymoon, and hand the whole mess over to him.

In the meantime, if anybody else has any more tips, here’s what happens: neither inner nor outer handles open the door; they move, but nothing happens. When I press the fob, I hear a clunk, and the pin rises or falls pretty much as expected… but nothing else happens…?