Gauge swap?

Just a quick one before I start dismantling.
Is it possible to swap the positions of the clock and the oil temperature gauge? The former has no place in a plaything and the latter is of vital importance so I would like it closer to my line of sight. I'm just wondering if they are keyed into the centre panel which would make them unswappable.

They can be swapped over, both holes are identical

Thank you. Out with the tools then tomorrow and tug out the yellow aerial wire while I'm at it to give the remote a bit more range.

I think it has been said on here several times that the oil temperature gauge isn't particularly accurate, more indicative. It certainly won't react quick enough to predict coolant loss, hence many fit the aftermarket coolant level alarm, though you seem to have worked this out (just seen your pressure sensor suggestion...)

The oil temperature gauge is the preferred means of ensuring that the engine is warmed up enough to use the performance. Although the thermostat opens in a couple of minutes, the engine isn't ready. Accuracy is fairly immaterial unless at a track day but once the oil temperature needle is past the first graduation, the fun can begin with minimal risk to the head gasket.

Been thinking about this today myself...

Did you have any luck with the swap? Likewise I'd prefer to have a temp gauge closer to line of sight!

Cheers

The clock in my VVC hasn't kept time properly in the 12 years I have owned it, I have been tempted to swap it for an oild pressure gauge.

I mend clocks and watches so it never surprises me that the one in any car I buy runs perfectly! MG clocks seem to be notoriously inaccurate. I shall have to take one apart and write a how to. Are the earlier clocks better than the later ones?

In a word , NO ! 🙃

The clock is made largely of acrylic plastic which has limited dimensional stability at 20 plus years old but the most likely causesof problems are going to be dried lubricants and dirt. I would strip the face and hands then ultrasonically clean for half an hour in lukewarm water diluted ten per cent Flash liquid followed by half an hour at five per cent, then ten minutes in plain water. Dry in airing cupboard overnight. Ensure the pole pieces of the magnetic core are clean and there is a gap between it and the rotor. Lubricate each bearing, not the teeth of the wheels nor the leaves of the pinions with the tip of a wooden cocktail
stick.

For the lubricant, a thin engine oil, 5w 30 or 40 will be just fine.

That ought to work.

MY clock is accurate and its the original in a 1996 MGF !!!! and the position has been swapped with the inaccurate oil temprature gauge !! ( Roger Parker ( MGOC) summed it up very clearly - 'the purpose of the oil temprature gauge is purely to fill a hole '

I beg to differ Bryan. The oil temperature gauge serves to protect the head gasket and it does so very well. Believing in the coolant temperature gauge is simply ridiculous as it rises far too quickly to be in any way useful as an indicator of a warm engine and doing so has wrecked countless K series engines. Once there is oil temperature showing, the engine can be driven hard.