Clutch release arm
Friends,
My clutch pedal has been sticking for a few weeks now.
I’ve replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system and for a little while that appeared to do the trick, however the pedal went to the floor and didn’t spring back.
I’ve now rebled the clutch and sprayed the release arm with WD40 and a lubricant.
The pedal now appears to be operating normally.... but for how long?
Online, this appears a common MG TF fault and an updated release arm is now available.
My question is, should I leave it now it’s working?
Or for the want of £30 should I replace it.
Is it an easy job to do??
TIA
Bob
My clutch pedal has been sticking for a few weeks now.
I’ve replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system and for a little while that appeared to do the trick, however the pedal went to the floor and didn’t spring back.
I’ve now rebled the clutch and sprayed the release arm with WD40 and a lubricant.
The pedal now appears to be operating normally.... but for how long?
Online, this appears a common MG TF fault and an updated release arm is now available.
My question is, should I leave it now it’s working?
Or for the want of £30 should I replace it.
Is it an easy job to do??
TIA
Bob
by Bobb
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Changing the arm itself is not difficult but first you have to take the gearbox out!!
Try getting some release agent down the spindle followed by some light oil if this works and you do it 2/3 times a year it will probably last until the clutch needs changing then you can incorporate the arm change.
Try getting some release agent down the spindle followed by some light oil if this works and you do it 2/3 times a year it will probably last until the clutch needs changing then you can incorporate the arm change.
by deepfat
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- Airportable
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- Notanumber
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Had you replaced the flexible hose at the same time as the slave cylinder as these can become porous and also can 'balloon' under pressure so the effort at the pedal doesnt reach the slave cylinder
2003 TF 135 sunstorm
by Notanumber
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Use a chain oil aerosol rather than WD40, it sprays out thin and penetrates like WD40 but when the solvent evaporates it leaves a film of grease. It is designed to penetrate the links on chains to lubricate the rollers
by MGB281
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I would endorse this approach. From some unknown source I have inherited a squirty can of chain spray with graphite & although I don’t adhere to 2/3 squirts a year the arm gets a good sqeg whilst I’m under piddling with other stuff. We live in an ancient cottage with matching doors which created horror film groans & squeaks when opened or closed, I squegged them all with this stuff & the entire character of the place changed. I also got bollocked because it leaves a trickle of black film running down from the hinges to drip on the carpet.
M
M
Last Edit:1 year 5 months ago
by Airportable
Last edit: 1 year 5 months ago by Airportable.
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No pain No gainI would endorse this approach. From some unknown source I have inherited a squirty can of chain spray with graphite & although I don’t adhere to 2/3 squirts a year the arm gets a good sqeg whilst I’m under piddling with other stuff. We live in an ancient cottage with matching doors which created horror film groans & squeaks when opened or closed, I squegged them all with this stuff & the entire character of the place changed. I also got bollocked because it leaves a trickle of black film running down from the hinges to drip on the carpet.
M
by MGB281
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- trevtherev
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In my experience Ive found the gain to be so much less that the pain which seems to be never ending.
by trevtherev
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Controlling pain is simply mind over matter.
I don’t mind & you don’t matter.
That’s dreadfully, did I really say that !
I don’t mind & you don’t matter.
That’s dreadfully, did I really say that !
by Airportable
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