Thin Yellow Pipe Connection

One problem with instructions, irrespective of what they apply to is the author already knows a great deal about the device they describing & they are rarely capable of getting themselves into the same frame of mind as the person to be instructed.
Every new concept has had its function explained to the next adopter whether that be a sharp flint, the jaw bone of an ass, the arse bone of a giraffe, steam engine, atomic reactor or the service manual for your car.
If you’ve never used the arse bone of a giraffe to slay an ass to obtain its jaw bone, that has to be explained & if that explanation is inadequate you will be left stood there with the arse bone in one hand & the jaw bone doing 40mph in the opposite direction still firmly attached to the ass.
Read with an open mind & informed by past experience, a workshop manual should be no more complicated than slaying an ass with the giraffe arse bone.
But why are technically manuals so impenetrable?
M

Posting with a phone always seems to get the message scrambled, this case in particular is heading the wrong way so I will start again. A few weeks ago I found a small black pipe (identical to the yellow one in this thread) and not finding where it should plug in asked on this forum. I already new about the exhaust diverter valve and finding the port on the end open I closed it with the machine screw. The manifold port had been plugged long ago and all that I have done since is cut off the pipe from the solenoid valve leading to the diverter valve as recommended and which is the obvious thing to do. The solenoid valve has never been unplugged or the wiring tampered with. When this thread started I did wonder if I had received some duff information and had eliminated an essential pipe, mine was long enough to reach to the far end of the engine then turn and almost reach the bulkhead.
I had a look today to see if I could get a better photo showing the port on the head for the benefit of others, to my surprise I also found a short yellow pipe that was the original feed to the solenoid valve. I will attach to photos, one will show the yellow pipe which originally plugged into the inlet manifold, you will see that the end is resting on the machine screw that is now blocking the port. The second photo shows the end of the black pipe that used (before my ownership) to go to the exhaust diverter valve, apologies for causing the confusion.
At the same time I also started a new thread regarding the sluggish performance between 2000 and 3750 rpm which is still there although not as bad as it was. I have not had any feedback from the forums but will contact K Maps to see if they have any idea where the problem may lay.

Mmmmm. Thanks. I’m putting everting back together and will see if there are residual problems.
Ta very muchly.

I had a reply from Kmaps less than an hour after emailing them on a Sunday evening, they are suggesting that I test the Lambda sensor. The test is simple, you just unplug the sensor and if the problem goes away the sensor is duff! The solution is either to keep the sensor unplugged:-? and keep driving or fit a new one and keep driving! Apparently the only day that is needed is MOT day.

Airportable wrote:

One problem with instructions, irrespective of what they apply to is the author already knows a great deal about the device they describing & they are rarely capable of getting themselves into the same frame of mind as the person to be instructed.
Every new concept has had its function explained to the next adopter whether that be a sharp flint, the jaw bone of an ass, the arse bone of a giraffe, steam engine, atomic reactor or the service manual for your car.
If you’ve never used the arse bone of a giraffe to slay an ass to obtain its jaw bone, that has to be explained & if that explanation is inadequate you will be left stood there with the arse bone in one hand & the jaw bone doing 40mph in the opposite direction still firmly attached to the ass.
Read with an open mind & informed by past experience, a workshop manual should be no more complicated than slaying an ass with the giraffe arse bone.
But why are technically manuals so impenetrable?
M

Which is why the manual should be proofread bay capable person not involved with the design

MGB this is not aimed at you as from reading your previous posts your about my level on this subject, hopefully the wider community can enlighten us a bit :doh:

I know very little about modern (to me) electrickery and am desperately trying to learn and what Kmaps said seems to contradict what little I thought I knew. My understanding was that the ECU uses measurements from various sensors to determine the fuelling/timing etc the car needs to run efficiently, I thought the pre cat sensor measured oxygen in the exhaust gases compared to ambient (ie outside air) and if high the ECU added more fuel to use it up and lean off the engine if its too low as otherwise some fuel will remain unburnt. The only thing I know currently (maybe wrong again) about the post cat sensor is that it should read lower than the pre cat as I presume the cat uses some up to do its thing. I'm just starting on closed loop (hooray) as against open loop (boo) and thought that most sensors if reporting garbage or failing to report (Kmaps advice?) could trigger the ECU to go open loop (boo), whatever that is will hopefully be in the next chapter.

Whilst on the subject can anyone recommend any books that cover this subject that are not too techy, I'm sick of vids and the web you can't easily flick back or have 2 pages open, I just want a BOOK .

The internet has stolen the technical book away from those who want to sit comfortably & read, what is termed rather disparagingly called “hard copy“.
Where I was studying electrical technology the instruction from the tutor was “Open your Hughes’”. This was a reference to Edward Hughes Electrical & Electronic Technology, a book so ubiquitous than all students of my era & I hope later would recognise the word in an instant.
It is still available at £70, fortunately a used copy can be had for £5.
And that fiscal point is why fringe subjects like what goes on inside these anonymous boxes is left in cyberspace.
I’ve attempted to read some of the technical junk on the internet & some is barely English, which might not come as much of a surprise. And we’re not going to return to the written word unless there’s one hell of a power cut.
The computer & internet are cruel mistresses, whilst they give an enormous amount with one hand, they sneak away with part of your soul, real history & your history in particular.
My brother in law on finding he could transfer his record collection to his computer did so. He sold all his records & turntable & when his computer suffered a disc fart, lost it all in an instant. No Back Up Files. Sorry Chris you we’re told.
He recently bought a new turntable & started collecting records again.
I didn’t do that I kept it all & played Barlioz & Richard Thompson whilst he listened to Spotify. And I’ve still got my Hughes.
I’m sorry this doesn’t help you with your quest but it partially explains why you have the quest in the first place.
M

Deepfat
You and I are at the same level of understanding of how the ECU works. However like you I have spent too much time watching videos on the internet and have actually started reading more now. I have decided to go with a ME442 on my MGB, having made that decision I am reading about setting that particular one up rather than an overview of all types. In this respect I have learnt a great deal about the ME442 but I know nothing about a Megasquirt and have been advised that taking your car to a rolling road tuner only works if the technician is familiar your particular hardware AND software. In theory a "self learning" "adaptive" or "closed loop" should run perfectly once all the parameters are set, but the word "should" is not another meaning of "will". My onward daily advancement of knowledge continues.
Back to Mark at Kmaps and this is his email reply;

Your symptom is a pretty common outline of a lambda sensor issue.
These switch in after a start delay and also switch off above 3500rpm, usually meaning the drive clears at higher rpm..
An easy check is to simply unplug the lambda sensor connector, this is an oval section plug usually clipped together on the side of the cylinder head.
You can drive without the sensor as its not needed for driving, only for the mot check...
Mark

Can you chaps update my MGB knowledge?
As I recall it’s an 1800cc four cylinder B series engine with 6k rpm red line. That’s as far as I go.
The last time I drove one I wasn’t all that impressed, it wasn’t a cohesive drive, left & right & front & back seemed to be only vaguely aware of the others existence, as if rubber fixings had been used.
It wasn’t a well loved example, being an MOT scrape through yearly. The brown highlights on the white paintwork wasn’t encouraging & I walked away & shortly after bumped into an MGf. That very MGf is coming out of the garage in half an hour, then we’ll be off.
Sorry, I don’t wish to be rude, I’m just aligning my thoughts on your projected ECU upgrades.
M

Well there are several versions of the MGB ie MGC, MGB V8, MGRV8 plus the darker side where Ford 302’s and GM V6’s rule plus a whole range of others including MX5, Honda S2000, Vauxhall V6, etc mine is having a Jaguar 3.0V6, RX8 gearbox with a four link rear axle😁:clap:
However you are correct about an old badly maintained MGB however before mine has a new heart I will do a bare metal repaint after fitting a Midget rear valance and MK1 golf wheel arch repair panels . Then apart from the four link rear end, a poly bushed front end upgraded brakes all round. Originally the MGB was to have a coil spring rear axle (the coil spring mounts were never deleted but in production mounted the bump stops) but even in the early sixties the bean counters said too expensive.
All this to fill my retirement which should start on my wife’s birthday at the beginning of September.

That sounds rather tasty but not how it erupted out of Longbridge.
I’ve seen baboons hearts transplanted into donkeys but I suspect you’re working at a different level.
My thoughts were along the lines of the car as originally supplied & your thought processes with the adoption of control electronics.
The Jag engine is based on the Ford durotec as far as I can recall & will have sensing hardware as standard, fitting a more advanced ECU to upgrade should be straightforward. I know a vanishingly small amount about the Megasquirt but all facilities are engineered in & the rest is done in software.
It’s unlikely that I’ll move into this league, being more likely to turn to an older vehicle, I’ve never restored a Series one Land Rover, an 80” would fit in the garage with adequate space around for old bones to get up. Getting down is easy, I just allow gravity to take over.
Do the moderators think this thread should be moved to another place?
M

Airportable Snap
I originally went looking for a B but soon discovered my budget was woefully short, somebody (an idiot) told me there was a B going cheap locally which turned out to be a rough TF! I drove it to be polite and was smitten with the way it drove. Obviously I didn't buy that one but the one I did buy with 25K (then) on it cost me less than what a condition 3 B would have cost.