Battery change

Hi,
So after the key fob issue it’s onto the car battery. Went out today and it wouldn’t start. Classic symptoms of flat battery - clickety click etc. To be fair to the car it hasn’t been used much in the last 6 or so weeks. Checked its records and the Bosch battery was replaced at 05/05/16, so probably time for a new one.
Is there anything I need to know about changing the battery. There’s no radio code to worry about that’s long since been replaced. Is there anything else that might need a reset? I’ve looked in the manual but there’s nothing in there so I’m assuming there isn’t.
Regards,
Michael.

Invent a portable 12v source (preferably), although an old battery with at least 9v in it & a bit of puff will do & link it into the circuit up stream from the battery. That will maintain the settings whilst the main battery is out & the new in; BUT if you use a auxiliary source less than 12v disconnect immediately or POP ! ! !
I changed my battery recently, I went for a Varta, if you want any more info PM me.
M

I always disconnect the battery when the car is not in use, due to the fact that the stupid security system will drain the battery over time. I’ve not had any problems with awakening the car once the battery is reconnected.

Old style battery charger will do it with someone to hold the detached clamps for safety whilst you change the battery.

Battery replaced with no ill effects due to no backup voltage while doing so.
All well but a little concerned that it’s only charging at 13.5V at the battery terminals, is that TF normal? Would’ve expected about 14.5V
The negative clamp could do with being slightly less in diameter - it gripped only just as the thread ran out. Will keep checking that.
👍🏻

That negative terminal isn’t odd, or at least in my experience, the f has a packer & the tf had one also. I’ve rattled another couple or three off over the last X X X X X X years.
M

I had a similar experience with my TF and due to me fitting a digital readout charger in place of the cig lighter I got an early warning that all was not well in the alternator department , The engine bay temperatures on our cars make for a very harsh environment for the alternator and it is usually a case of regulator failure although not in all cases . Due to my car having low mileage I thought that I would have a go at replacing the regulator. Prior to fitting it the output was 13.2 volts at tick over speed . After fitting 14.5 !
It depends on how much you want to spend and gamble plus, your confidence on stripping the alternator to fit a new regulator only to find that its a new unit that you should have gone for. My new regulator is still allowing the alternator to pump out a healthy output so , in my case the gamble paid off.

John

Thanks Mike,
I’ll get some packers methinks. The Sparky in me doesn’t like connections you can’t swing on!

Thanks for that John.
I’ll check the prices and ease/or not of self fitting of both.
It just so happens I bought a dual cig lighter charger with a readout last week and had it in the Freelander. Just took the TF for a spin with it in and it read the same as in the FL - 12.5V. Shamefully, I’d only done 11.5 miles this month in the TF! Shoddy.
Cheers.

If you are confident in getting the alternator off , fitting a new regulator is straight forward .

Hi,
Well I replaced the dodgy battery clamp and all that’s good now……I’ll see how the alternator/regulator performs.
Incidentally I received for my birthday recently a Gunsons 80A current meter with three different adapters for the various sized automotive fuse links. If I remove the battery fuse and monitor the current while on tick over what level of current should I expect to see?
But. Now I’ve now got the engine right on and with my el cheapo hardware widget and Car Scanner iPhone app there’s no codes to be found apparently.
It did this just after I’d bought it in June with a lambda sensor code and went out after I’d filled it up with premium unleaded, never returned until today. I’ve fill ed it up again today from 1/4 full with premium so it may resolve again. I can’t help thinking that recent events of not much use and flat battery haven’t got some bearing on this so will see if it stays. There seems to be nothing untoward regarding the running of the car, everything seems to be doing its thing.
However, if it doesn’t resolve itself what are your recommendations regarding getting the code. From what I gather PScan seems to be the bees knees but I’d rather not get a PC (or Mac) involved. I’d much rather have a hardware code reader.
Apologies for the War and Peace essay.
Regards,
Michael.

Checked the battery terminals and got 14.5 V , so looks like the charging circuit is ok after all.
Spoke with MGF & TF Bitz regarding the engine light but no codes, they suggested I select clear anyway. This cleared the light and all’s good with my world now!😁
Cheers.