MGTF rear upper arm ~ replace/service

I have viewed the "how to" relating to this subject but am still a little hesitant to take this job on without knowing more.
Gazing under the car into the darkened areas where one might find the securing bolts for the long pivot bolt it is not so easy to see where they are and particularly so on the off side.
In my case the off side item almost flops around in the breeze and renewal would seem necessary.
Can anyone please tell me how easy it is to actually get at the bolts that secure that pivot shaft in place?

Trying to find out as much about this as I can before I start can anyone please tell me if the Mike Satur kit needs anything more than the bolt (kit) that he can supply to fit a new or replacement top arm?
In that kit I see the long through bolt and spacers that presumably fit either side of the new bush in the top arm along with new securing plate and bolts. Are additional shims needed?

It's probably best to check with Mike as some of his replacement parts don't always fit in exactly the same way as the originals they replace.

A recent example I found are his replacement brake pad retention pins for the AP calipers which need a small drilling modification to the caliper- though this is a much better fitting method that should avoid the pins ever stubbornly seizing

Depending on how much you want to save or how much effort you want to put in then I would remove your two top arms and order two of these; Suspension Control Arm Bush Rear/Upper FOR MG TF 1.6 1.8 02->09 MG TF Petrol FL Buy It Now
and two of these;
Genuine MG Rover Upper Rear Suspension Ball Joint For MG TF RBK000091 Buy It Now

If you haven't got a small angle grinder then I suggest that you get one and a wire brush to fit, then having removed the arms give them a thorough wire brushing and apply rust killer then a good coat of paint of your choice. Take your arms to your local friendly garage, most will push out the old ones and replace with the new ones for £10 in cash.
The Mike Satur bump stops are nice but I wouldn't waste my money again on the stainless steel spacers, they only suffer a bit of exterior rusting and will wire brush up as good as new. You can buy the big socket 46mm 0r 113/16 on ebay for less than £10;
US PRO Tools 46mm 1/2" dr 6 Point (79mm Long) Hub Nut Socket, Gearbox etc 3502 Buy It Now
No shims are required but not all ball joints come with the locking tab or a locknut though, unless there are witness marks then the bolt can be used again.

Have you looked in the workshop manual, it’s available to download from the community pages, the EPC can be useful also.
All the underpinnings of my tf, apart from one front control arm, we’re in great condition & so my first hand knowledge is slim, however all the service info + the “how to’s” should be sufficiently informative & with input from Satur you’ll have no more problems than the next bod.
MGB281 addition if a worthy contribution, especially the big socket if you’re into the car for the long run. Car specific service tools are always a knife edge purchase; how often will it be used & how the hell can they ask so much for it?
The big socket & a lambda sensor socket/offset adapter are cross car tools & are worthy additions to a tool kit.
Keep us up to date with how you are going on.
M

For the rear upper arm you need a deeper socket. The 100mm item does the job.
The shorter item may do the front ball joint. I’ll let you know in due course.
And for info. The intention for using the slogger is/was just to give it a sharp tap to “break” the threadlock. There was no intention to hammer “3 bales of stuffing” out of the thing.

Fair enough, my history equates flogging spanners with heavy equipment & that deep seated image didn’t transfer readily into the delicacy’s of our cars.
I commented that I’d happily give a ring spanner a crack with a copper & hide but when flogging spanner’s are mentioned an entirely different picture forms in my mind, part of that image includes a beer bellied bloke in oily overalls with a lump hammer in dirt engrained hands.
M

Airportable wrote:

Fair enough, my history equates flogging spanners with heavy equipment & that deep seated image didn’t transfer readily into the delicacy’s of our cars.
I commented that I’d happily give a ring spanner a crack with a copper & hide but when flogging spanner’s are mentioned an entirely different picture forms in my mind, part of that image includes a beer bellied bloke in oily overalls with a lump hammer in dirt engrained hands.
M

So it’s nice to know that you think of me!
:bust:

So the picture in your thumbnail is of someone different. Don’t you think that’s a bit misleading to have an image of a slim chap in racing overalls sporting a stick-on Father Christmas beard & to pass it off as you. My image of you is now shattered if you claim, as you appear to do, that the beer bellied grubby bloke I described is you personified.
M

Delbourt wrote:

For the rear upper arm you need a deeper socket. The 100mm item does the job.
The shorter item may do the front ball joint. I’ll let you know in due course.
And for info. The intention for using the slogger is/was just to give it a sharp tap to “break” the threadlock. There was no intention to hammer “3 bales of stuffing” out of the thing.

There is no need for a 100mm deep socket, I replaced all four top ball joints using the one that I show and referenced. One of the MGTF suppliers is selling the exact same socket for £28 plus postage, nice work if you can get it. :rant:

I accept that I’m relatively new to MGTF but I would like to ask if your information relating to socket depth applies to both MGF and MGTF?
I think the first socket I obtained was 85mm tall it went over the stud of the rear balll joint but would not permit the socket set 1/2” square to engage.
The 100mm item was fine. The front ball joint is apparently shorter (and provided the item I have been supplied is the correct item I can confirm that).

Ok, can anyone assist with this please?
I have the upper arm out with the bolt and the rearmost spacer.
The front “top hat” spacer appears to be reluctant to be dislodged.
Is there anything restraining its movement?

At the front end of the assembly the oval plate locator is retained by two small bolts. Access to the inner one of the pair is hidden behind the top hat spacer.
So, what am I missing please? What holds that top hat in place?

Secondly, what purpose does the additional oval shaped plate serve?

At the moment that spacer is held in with a dab or two of rust. If you are replacing the spacers with Mike Saturs stainless steel one then give to a bit of penetrating oil and then a few sharp taps, if not then you could leave it un disturbed. The rear subframe is a modified Metro front subframe, the oval plate with two holes is required for the front top arm pivot bolt to be removed and refitted. At the back the "pivot" bolt is a simple 1/2" bolt but at the front it is a bigger shaft with 1/2" threads at each end. If you have all new parts then replace them otherwise I would leave as it is. Here is an exploded diagram of the rear;
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID018914
Here is the front diagram;
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID018903 You can clearly see the difference between the rear suspension pivot bolt #40 and the front pivot also #40.
If MG had used a purpose built subframe none of those spacers and the oval plate would have been needed just a shorter bolt (#40), remember the whole design is effectively based on the Mini from sixty five years ago