Selecting the correct wiring diagram

Yes, thank you for the correction. We don’t talk about Rave around here! It’s something we all dread when the tribes flock to the locality to disturb the peace and tranquility.
So I’ll try and remember the correct protocol for future.
But, thank you for the explanation regarding the origins of the wiring diagrams .

Regarding the machine gun incident. It happened once about a year ago, i.e. both occasions on the same day. The first was after about a 3/4 hour drive to the club meeting point, and then again possibly about an hour or three hours after that ( I can’t now remember if it was before or after the dinner). But it was 12 months ago in damp conditions. The only other wet day out in that car gave no problems. Since then probably 1000 miles later and our way to the repair shop, and in the roadworks section of the A30, the alternator packed up. The last 20 miles or so were made relying on what the alternator could deliver and what the battery could supply.
The garage reported that when they tried to start it on the next day to get it in the workshop there was nothing left in it. They had to push it into the workshop. That was early Oct.
Since then no problems. I do have a spare door handle with switches etc and want to change it but the weather is atrocious at the moment as we all know and I don’t want the other stuff in the garage outside whilst I strip the door down to get at it.
It’s on the list of jobs to do. Fixing suspension ball joints was higher up the list of priorities.

With a windows XP operating system adobe 4 functions with the RAVE CD download.
Is there a known way to open the wiring diagrams using a Windows 10 machine?
If there is I have not been able to find it. I tried extracting all the files onto a windows 10 but as expected adobe 4 does not appear to function on the newer operating system and therefore nothing opens.
Am I seeking to achieve the impossible or is there a solution?

Have you tried methods described here: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/roverlike-s-guides/98382-how-to-run-rave-under-windows-10-or-windows-11

Thank you for that information. it does appear to have the necessary instruction to enable the data to be viewed on my Windows 10 machine. I chose option 1 as that seemed simplest and if it had not worked I still had the option 2.
So I am most grateful for your help, thank you.
Unfortunately, I'm not convinced that the information contained within the CD applies to my car. Taking the example of the cigar lighter it suggests that the power to the relay comes from fuse 2 and the control from fuse 1. According to the image pasted on the drop down flap in the car the two relevant fuses would be 1 and 17 with 17 being identified as ICE/MFU Cigar feed which I hope might be the power rather than relay control feed to the cigar outlet socket. So obviously there needs to be some caution applied.

Consulting other links (by Roverlike I think) it seems that the cigar lighter relay is the "round one" towards the top right of the fuse panel rather than "the black one" towards the top left.
Perhaps a little testing might clarify the sistuation. So, first isolate the battery and extract the round relay, identify the equivalent of terminal 30 for a standard relay and test for continuity between the live contact point in the cigar lighter socket and "terminal 30". Then extract fuses 1, 2 and 17. Test for continuity between "terminal 30" and the three fuses. One will show continuity and hopefully only one and not two or all three. If both fuse 2 and 17 show continuity I'm no further forward.
It does not explain why two fuses (2 and 17) are identified as being associated with the cigar socket. I am expecting fuse 1 to be associated with the relay coil as most wiring diagrams suggest that.
Can anyone add clarity to this please?

Well, I am expecting for fuse 1 to be cigar lighter relay coil power and fuse 2 to be cigar lighter power. I am expecting for fuse 17 to not have anything with cigar lighter whatsoever.

I am also expecting for round relay to be cigar lighter relay and for the top left black one to be flasher relay.

You will correct me if I am wrong, of course.

An update- of sorts.
After a struggle I managed to bolt a M6 eye onto the chassis just under the heater and a relay mount onto a M5 hole again gust under the heater (both holes previously threaded at the factory - no idea what they were intended for), that part of the chassis appears to be common with the ground at the cigar socket.
Now, after that struggle time was getting on and fatigue setting in so the proposed tests were not carried out.
However, I removed the fuse 17 associated with ICE/MFU and the cigar socket itself remained fully functional as far as I could see.
So the conclusion, at least for the moment, is that fuses 1 and 2 are key to cigar socket function.
So the supply to my new relay will be piggybacked from fuse 2, and the ignition on supply to the energise the relay coil is likely to be taken from the fuse to either windows or possibly wipers once I prove those are only live with ignition on.

For the record the footwell light issue was a blown bulb at least on the passenger side. Getting that working nearly got me into deeper trouble. Being “clever” and not wanting that light coming on and off I latched the door mechanism manually. But when I came to shut the door at the end of the day lifting the door handle did not open the gate so the door would not close. Fortunately lifting the door handle and pushing the latch open with screwdriver resolved the situation. Phew!