Gas Sphere Question
Does anyone know what size the threads are on the gas spheres
Been measuring already but can't figure out exactly what thread it is.
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I’ve got my big box of stuff like that out at the moment, however a quick confirmation would be handy, I was just finishing my brew & then putting it away.
M
Edit,
I pulled the appropriate box out of the big box & took it into the workshop to dig out the taps & dies, forget all about it & locked up.
Having had a bath I don’t feel inclined to wander about the garden & open up in my pyjamas I’ll look in the morning.
M, again.
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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Here’s one for those who are accruing years & who might be getting nervous about it.
I’ve been down at church all morning DIGGING a GRAVE. A church wardens job isn’t all fancy hats, staves of office & looking official, there are lots of fun jobs to be done.
I’ll look at the threads when my pacemaker stops thumping.
It’s great to see the grump returning Cobb’s. Take care mate.
Edit.
Lets all give a resounding Hurrah for Cobber! the thread form is indeed. as the master tells us, 1/4 BSP & without looking.
I should have known that considering the oddments I've made. Good on ya mate.
M
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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Gonna machine a blank up next week see if it wil fit .
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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You should be able to buy an end cap from a plumbing supplier for bugger all……..much less trouble than machining one up.
Thanks , that will safe me machinine one part , still have to machine one that holds the shrader valve to pressure up the single spheres on the front .
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I also recall them being on eBay at some stage in the proceedings.
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Is it to compensate for a sagging sphere or is it a “track day” mod’?
The beauty of hydro gas is the interlinked suspension, what goes up, comes down, to compensate & it’s this that provides the unique properties of this system in a sports car.
Taking this to its logical conclusion ; remove all the interlinked pipe work & fill each sphere individually via a shrader valve fitted locally.
This need not involve having a valve on the unit, it can be achieved by using a further two
RNP100180 pipes, complete with the Schader valve (off a scrapper).
These would be fitted with an end blank & applied to the rear & the front network, as normal but again with blanks to localise the fluid to the front spheres.
I’ll leave this here for now, but when I have the car out after & I can safely lift the boxes down I’ll take some photographs to illustrate.
M
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These speak for themselves really, the blanking end on the pipe was a cobbling job when I started to think about the system & the point about scrapyard parts is underwritten by the rusty nut adjacent to the valve.
Those who have the Satur or the Suplex systems, how did you rate the change over.
David it’s better to grit your teeth & possibly sit this bit out!
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