leaking inlet manifold ??
If your original manifold is ABS plastic type then the gasket is a rubber 'O' ring section seal which fits into a moulded slot at the face.
Mine was leaking air (vacuum leak)and water as it had been previously been so overheated that it had damaged the 'o'ring face gasket but also leaking water where the coolant pipe connects onto the manifold (where the metal tube is pushed into the plastic)
Alloy manifold has solved the problems;
http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/89626-abs-plastic-to-alloy-inlet-manifold#125099
I would go for a complete alloy manifold from a breakers as the attached fuel pipes are different lengths, you can always fit your original sensors to the new manifold.
Mine was leaking air (vacuum leak)and water as it had been previously been so overheated that it had damaged the 'o'ring face gasket but also leaking water where the coolant pipe connects onto the manifold (where the metal tube is pushed into the plastic)
Alloy manifold has solved the problems;
http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/89626-abs-plastic-to-alloy-inlet-manifold#125099
I would go for a complete alloy manifold from a breakers as the attached fuel pipes are different lengths, you can always fit your original sensors to the new manifold.
by Badger
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- Tourbillon
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Thanks Badger, will order up the Manifold and gasket today. How hard was cutting out the ports with a die-cutter is there enough room in there for a drill or do i need a flexible drive?
N
N
by Tourbillon
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My die grinder is air driven of the compressor and the bits are HSS or carbide; (don't use the stone type on aluminium)
Once the manifold is out of the way you have plenty of room to get in, plug the inlet ports tightly with rag and the same with anything else thats open as the swarf gets everywhere, if you grind the lead at about 45 degrees you go in less than 10mm as you are only removing a small amount of material. The alloy is very soft and it only took a few minutes per port, I used an air line and blow gun to get rid of the swarf afterwards.
The hardest job is getting the old plastic manifold out of the engine bay slot and fitting the new nyloc nuts the the 4 lower studs on the head and new manifold.
Once the manifold is out of the way you have plenty of room to get in, plug the inlet ports tightly with rag and the same with anything else thats open as the swarf gets everywhere, if you grind the lead at about 45 degrees you go in less than 10mm as you are only removing a small amount of material. The alloy is very soft and it only took a few minutes per port, I used an air line and blow gun to get rid of the swarf afterwards.
The hardest job is getting the old plastic manifold out of the engine bay slot and fitting the new nyloc nuts the the 4 lower studs on the head and new manifold.
by Badger
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Had a visit by Russell last Saturday .pressure test all ok .Set throttle up for me. Carried dianostics ,reset faults. I started car today and it has still got water loss !!!! also rough idle on start up for the first few minutes. alloy manifold is fitted,any thoughts PLEASE.
by markmgf
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That's what Im thinking Ben .Great guy Russell .But sods law it wasn't doing it when he was here !!!! and if it was not doing it, then he couldn't find it I guess :nonod:
by markmgf
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I'd ring him he will know and do his best to get round to fixing it for ya
by bensewell
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