locking wheel nuts

Can anyone recommend a decent replacement for the supplied locking wheel nuts? I had a falling out with mine this evening.

these are McGard - http://shop.mg-rover.org/shop/152_455_0/mg/mg_tf/alloy_wheels/alloy_wheel_locking_wheel_kit/index.html

Set on order. thanks.
If I ever have to take to a garage where I know they'll have to take the wheel(s) off, I'll remove the locking nuts before hand. Any over tightening will then be down to me. Im now going to turn the house upside down to see if I can find my spare tool to get the other three nuts off ...... or it's hammer time.

rog1963 wrote: Set on order. thanks.
If I ever have to take to a garage where I know they'll have to take the wheel(s) off, I'll remove the locking nuts before hand. Any over tightening will then be down to me. Im now going to turn the house upside down to see if I can find my spare tool to get the other three nuts off ...... or it's hammer time.

Hope you bought the X Part (McGard) set that Petevic reccomended?? the set on ebay looks too cheap and they dont look correct (the lazer cut keyway looks wrong to me)

Please dont drive to the garage with only three wheel nuts on!!! buy some spare ordinary nuts and use these. the MGF Centre have some reaaly nice stainless steel ones.

You can buy a new key for the OEM locks from B&G but you need the code, cost about £15 though or you will have to hammer an old socket on to remove the locks. :thumbsup:

a bit of info of what may happen if you buy the wrong McGard nuts - http://www.mgf-tf-central.co.uk/tt-running-gear.shtml?zoom_highlight=mcgard

bryan young wrote:

rog1963 wrote: Set on order. thanks.
If I ever have to take to a garage where I know they'll have to take the wheel(s) off, I'll remove the locking nuts before hand. Any over tightening will then be down to me. Im now going to turn the house upside down to see if I can find my spare tool to get the other three nuts off ...... or it's hammer time.

Hope you bought the X Part (McGard) set that Petevic reccomended?? the set on ebay looks too cheap and they dont look correct (the lazer cut keyway looks wrong to me)

OOps ... too late, I'll wait and see what arrives, there is a returns policy on the item, but if they are selling fake nuts Im not sure if the returns policy will be worth anything. Oh well, live and learn. :oops:

Reason for taking rear wheel off last night was that Im getting a noise from the wheel when reversing, similar noise to an angle grinder but quieter. They have tarred and chipped a local road so first suspicion was trapped grit, but can't see anything. With the car jacked up it only makes the noise when you spin the wheel backwards and interestingly if you push up and down on the suspension. Further investigation will resume tonight.

You will have comeback through ebay if they're fake, but I've seen genuine sets before selling for similar prices.:shrug:

TBH, i bought a 'genuine' set from the xpart shop, Pete has linked to. After a windy gun fitted nut wouldn't come off and I broke the key, I contacted McGard with the security number on the mgrover card(as in photo above) to get a replacement, McGard didn't recognise the number and I had to send them a close up photo of the locking nut itself before they could supply another!
And the replacement key broke before the nut would come off. :rant:

rog1963 wrote:

bryan young wrote:

rog1963 wrote: Set on order. thanks.
If I ever have to take to a garage where I know they'll have to take the wheel(s) off, I'll remove the locking nuts before hand. Any over tightening will then be down to me. Im now going to turn the house upside down to see if I can find my spare tool to get the other three nuts off ...... or it's hammer time.

Hope you bought the X Part (McGard) set that Petevic reccomended?? the set on ebay looks too cheap and they dont look correct (the lazer cut keyway looks wrong to me)

OOps ... too late, I'll wait and see what arrives, there is a returns policy on the item, but if they are selling fake nuts Im not sure if the returns policy will be worth anything. Oh well, live and learn. :oops:

Reason for taking rear wheel off last night was that Im getting a noise from the wheel when reversing, similar noise to an angle grinder but quieter. They have tarred and chipped a local road so first suspicion was trapped grit, but can't see anything. With the car jacked up it only makes the noise when you spin the wheel backwards and interestingly if you push up and down on the suspension. Further investigation will resume tonight.

Madmax (forum member) ha a simmilar problem last year, thought it was a stone in the rear calliper causing the squeaking/scratching noise, turns out it was a loose hub nut, and the bearings had turned in the hub (new hub and bearings) but there was play on the wheel if rocked from top to bottom and the hub nut was loose (should be torqued to 150lbs/ft and was finger tight because it was not spiked in properley. please let us know how you get on. Another thought is that the rear pads could be worn badly, had this problem on my Honda the rear pads had not been located in the wind back grooves in the piston and the pad had worn like a wedge, OR the caliper has seized keeping th pads in firm contact with the disc and because the way the pads wear they make strange noises when reversing. My other half has a late 2002 VW Polo which was making "mooing" noises when reversing, VW accepted the problem and replaced the callipers and pads under warranty saying that the handbrake levers were prone to sticking and causing the weird noise when reversing :omg:

Nuts arrived today and they have the correct spelling so Im assuming the genuine article. There is no part no with them so there is no way of knowing whether they are the ones prone to failure from 'bottoming out' on the stud. I put them on slowly and kept checking as I torqued the nut up and the head seems to be solidly in place still. A better close up pic below than the one on ebay:

nuts by mashthetea , on Flickr

As for the noise, looks like you are right about the pads Bryan, I loosened the caliper and turned the disc and the noise had stopped. Although there is still a fair bit of pad left the inside one looks to be in bad shape so pads (and probably discs while Im at it) will be a job for next week..
As usual, thanks for all the advice.
...... having since seen David's how to on locking wheel nuts and Bryan's adviceI also went for the hammer and socket removal option, works a treat :woohoo:

Looks good to me! Whatever you do, torque the wheel nuts on. :yesnod: 70NM