"Even though I had previously changed the cap for a new one supplied by the PO, I changed it again for one purchased through B and G and voila, coolant loss problem resolved."
That sentence reveals the simple truth that all pressure caps are NOT equal. Sadly there are a lot of fake or inferior products posing as quality. I have been caught out by them in the past.
I noticed that all the mobile mechanics have a pressure testing kit and got myself one. It quickly became clear that only trusted suppliers could be relied on to provide the genuine article!
Remember, if it is cheap, it's probably fake!
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I have, it’s not difficult. The thing to do is dispense with the clock & fit a matching pressure & temperature gauges. Standard 2”/52mm gauges go straight in, a union doubler is required, either as a screw in/on adapter. I prefer a sand plate, however not all sandwich plates are equal, some Chinese offerings don’t have the correct thread form.
If you go ahead & require more info we’ll cover it later.
M
David aiketgate wrote:-
There actually is an oil pressure sensor present already. It feeds the oil pressure warning light. When I put in my dual oil pressure and temp gauges, due to me getting the thread wrong on the pressure sensor that I'd bought, I thought, what the hell, try taking the wire off tbe back of the low pressure light and connecting tbe wire from the original sensor to the new gauge. Guess wbat? It works fine! Although I then didn't have a low oil pressure light, but I haven't missed it. If I could have been bothered I suppose I could have gone back in and piggybacked the oil light, but I'd put it all back together by then.🤣
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The Freelander motor might look the same in all visible respects but you want a wiper system that functions & not one which blows fuses & makes you, if you are not ordinarily grey, grey.
The problem is in the earthing & that is to do with the switching; our switching is old fashioned mechanical positive pole switching, whereas the Freelander is switched via electronics which is negatively switched.
This crops up every six months or so, I could do with a Freelander motor to see how this problem can be easily circumvented.
M
Afterthought:
if the motor can be isolated from the car earth? In effect a floating ground, then the motor frame could be either positive or negative ground, depending on which motor is being used.
I’m in my chair in the sitting room with the dog on my knee, the fire roaring up the chimney & thinking it through, if anyone can see holes in my thought process please join in.
M again.
David Aiketgate wrote:-
I have been through the entire painful freelander motor drama and it is, in practical terms, virtually impossible to isolate the motor from the car earth. You would also need to isolate tbe wiper mechanism too. As well as fiddle the wiring plug to correct tbe wiring.
I say painful because I test connected the wiring with the motor in my hand, forgetting the motor would self park when live. I ended up with my finger mashed between tbe arm and the motor body. Bl****** he**! Ouch!🤬
Also there's a nice electrical short trap⚡️⚡️⚡️ for yourself or any mechanic working on tbe car...⚡️
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