Outer sills require repair.

Although the little lady is parked up for the winter i decided to book her in for an mot. Halfords Autocentre had a £29.99 offer on, which gave me an opportunity to get a list of work required at very little cost.I'll work on her over the next few months when i have a bit of spare time on my hands. Anyway i have a long list of repairs needing done but the biggest is repairing both outer sills. Having looked around it soon became apparent that they are not available. So can someone point me in the right direction on thickness of steel needed for the repair please.

Postman87 wrote: ....So can someone point me in the right direction on thickness of steel needed for the repair please.

When you weld what thickness steel do you normally use?

Modern car bodies bare usually SWG 18, which is 1.02mm. Load bearing sections may be a tad thicker: around 1.5mm.
If unsure, cut out the rot then vernier or mic up the sound original metal making sure that you remove any burring for accuracy. Back when I used to do such things I'd go to the scrappy and buy a door or bonnet. Nowadays repair steel is more readily available and quite cheap.

Hope this helps.

talkingcars wrote:

Postman87 wrote: ....So can someone point me in the right direction on thickness of steel needed for the repair please.

When you weld what thickness steel do you normally use?

Funny you should ask that question. I wouldn't know as I have never welded before but I know a man who does and is willing to give me a crash course.

John and Sue wrote: Modern car bodies bare usually SWG 18, which is 1.02mm. Load bearing sections may be a tad thicker: around 1.5mm.
If unsure, cut out the rot then vernier or mic up the sound original metal making sure that you remove any burring for accuracy. Back when I used to do such things I'd go to the scrappy and buy a door or bonnet. Nowadays repair steel is more readily available and quite cheap.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your reply and your advice John and Sue. I'll get some steel plate ordered up.

No probs. If you're welding plate into holes get yerself a welding magnet or two. For a template tape a piece of paper over the hole and rub a mucky finger around the edges, cut it out and use to mark and cut your steel. Tack first then fill to avoid heat distortion: your mate will teach you this.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=welding+magnet&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#imgrc=fdD3WF9STFKYiM:

Dead handy.

As before, we used to strip old loudspeakers to get the magnet, now you can buy purpose made. Holds the repair steel in place when you tack in.

I learned to weld as an apprentice: oxyacetylene. Pre MIG. Pre TIG. Prehistoric.. But effin good. :yesnod:

Postman87 wrote: Funny you should ask that question. I wouldn't know as I have never welded before but I know a man who does and is willing to give me a crash course.

Sill welding is a risky place to start learning as it is a structural area.

If you really want to learn to weld I would pay your man that does to do this repair and then sign up for some evening classes.

I took a years worth of night classes in city and guilds welding at a local college to tune my skills (I self taught years ago on a mini floor that never actually saw the road anyway).

Thanks for your reply Talkingcars. I'll cut out the rot and take advice from the welder i know. Although i might not let him near my TF as he repairs SKIPS for a living.

After welding in the new metal, you will need some rust prevention.
There are metal sheets that are galvanized, with a coating that can be welded-through, special for car repair. I had that done for my volvo by a professional welder in a DIY garage in Amsterdam. Welding in a 10cmx10cm sheet cost me 25 euro, so don't do it yourself if you are not a professional welder.

I have given my MGTF a Dinitrol rust prevention, by a Dinitrol rust prevention centre. The they treat all cavities and, the wheel arches, the bottom of the car etc. To do that the bumpers and plastic covers etc are removed.
I cost 1000 euro, but certainly worth the money.
If during maintenance you want/need to use some rust prevention for parts that you removed/re-fiited, I use the yellow Waxoyl cans, or dinitrol spray cans. Eg if you jack-up your MG, after doing the job, it is a good thing to spray (or brush) a litte rust prevention on the spots were the jack has lifted the car.

Thanks for your reply tnjk. I'm in the process of ordering parts that I will need for my long list of repairs. Until I've stripped back the paint I won't know how bad the repair will be. As for paying for the work you clearly don't know me :nonod: the welder I know is my stepson. I won't be paying him I'll just have to be nice to him until the job is done :yesnod:
Having looked at the front subframe I am now planning to remove and refurbished it and take the opportunity to clean, repair and treat the underside.
Thank again for your advice.