Cambelts ?

Cheers will give it a try plan to make those stumps have more holes than a polo factory😂

My cam belt kit has arrived now, so trying to remove drivers side engine mount with out much success why don't garages put some anti seize on ? Had a £770 service before I bought it but no lube on any joints hinged etc. Anyway what is the hoop that goes over mount that bolts to sub frame for ? It is about 5mm.

You don't need to remove the mount as its possible to undo the two large bolts holding the mount together and drop the engine slightly in order to slip the new belt through the gap. If you do this make sure you support the engine via a jack under the sump with a wooden block in between the two. In my case these two bolts couldn't be shifted so I took the mount off where it bolts to the engine.
The hoop I believe is to limit movement of the rubber hydramount underneath when driving.

Hi thanks for that but can't touch the two bolts even my "supposed" 460nm rattle gun won't look at it. The engine tie bar rubber has perished so needs to be replaced and can't get to rear most bolt. Broke two bolts so far!

Is it the hydramount that needs replacing or one of the bushes in the tie bar?
Have you seen "Offside Engine mount - How to replace" in rhe How To guides.

Hi at least the one in tie bar, I have just removed tie bar but still don't think I can get too the last front mounting bolt, but I am willing to bet it shears off if I do get to it, will have a look thanks. Beginning to think might be better to take out subframe and engine needs a clean any way ?

It's quite a lot of work to drop the engine and subframe although plenty of others on here have done it.
I have just finished the cam belt on my TF and couldn't shift the 2 large bolts or the bolts on the tie bar. I ended up having to remove the engine mount (butress) by removing the 4 x 13mm bolts into the engine under the cam sprockets. They're not too difficult if you soak them first and use a long ring spanner. You will also need to remove the butress bolts, 2 at each end and before that, the trailing arm. Sounds a lot, but ok if you soak all bolts first plus when out you can work on the engine mount on the bench, plus gives lots of room to change the belt.

Thanks but I have now removed the engine mount so my plan at this stage is to carry on with cambelt change I can see a lot more with it out of the way. Also drill a pilot hole into the casing so I can soak It in plus gas, so I can remove the two bolts (I can think of other names) that have made this job into a bitch. Also buy some anti seize for the garage who did this job not long ago!

Hi I am ready to change my cambelt now but have watched a few videos but all are for the automatic belt tensioner has any body got a link to the manual one also the belt on other side of engine, cam variator belt?

Try here. Some useful You tube clips too, not sure if the VVC belt is mentioned
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/96914-mgf-cambelt-change#192125

Regards
Jon

Thanks Jon not really tbh but thanks. I have done belt twice now and every time when I tension it with spring it is a tooth out on one cam. Think it is time to leave it for a while, getting frustrated.

Perhaps someone who has experience of manual tensioners will be along to advise.