MGTF Door Lock question

Hi all,
just wondered if any one out there can help with the following query..

I needed to replace my driver side door lack ,it had the chattering noise issue.
i had a replacement so went ahead to replace it , bit fiddly but doable .
Just my luck the replacement wouldn't lock the door only attempting an unlock ,so decided to go back to the original .
But before I got to install the old lock the rod to the driver handle key barrel fell off in my hand..

the question is, should I be able to re attach the key barrel rod without removing the outside handle .
regards

Mike

My gut feeling is yes.

thanks for answering -will get a closer look with a torch

Mike

I found it easier to remove the barrel from the handle when I replaced my latch . The key barrel is held to handle on the inside of the door by a large U shaped wire clip . Unfortunately if it hasn't been off since new it will need pushing from the bottom in an upwards direction to clear the barrel and it can be a bit of sod but can be fitted the other way round way you refit .

John

John,
thanks for your reply ,I found that the short key lock rod isnt the same shape as the manual shows.and in the end I removed the barrel as you say and took the rod out. I then turned it upside down and cut of the hook shape at the other end so that in future the lock end can be pushed out at lower down.

Re-the barrel lock does the clip have to be removed completely to release the barrel lock?

Or is it like the coolant sensor clip which only has to be squeezed in to remove the sensor -it looks like the same type of clip//
Mike

Hi Mike . Sorry for the delay I in replying . I have been out celebrating a 50th wedding anniversary ( not mine ) so I'm slightly leathered ! 😨 I know the clip you are refering to on the wiring . Many folk have removed it and found it 'ping ' into the distance never to be seen again !
:nonod: The lock barrel retaining clip is fitted for assembly on the handle purely for speed on the production line so I don't believe it needs to be completely removed . If pushed vertically it just clears where it nips the lock barrel to the handle . If you ever need to remove the handle it is easier to clear the door handle aperture if the lock barrel is removed first . You may be able to remove the handle and barrel complete but you won't be able to refit it without scratching the paintwork with the barrel still attached to the handle . Hope that makes sense !
I'm now off to bed ! When I read this tomorrow after sobering up I'll think .....what was I on about ! :slapme:
John

I currently have my drivers door lock stripped down, the barrel has never worked since I owned the car and decided to clean and re-lube the barrel. I have changed the handle a couple of times and found it easier to push the retaining clip up so that the barrel comes out inside the door cavity. Its easier to put the connecting rod into the door barrel and make sure the plastic surround clip is firmly seated into the door barrel actuating lever to keep the connecting rod firm in the hole before lifting the barrel assembly back into the door handle body then sliding the retaining clip back down.
One thing I have noticed is that the clip can open up a little, leaving the barrel a bit loose in its aperture. So it may be a good idea to remove the clip and try to close it up a little before refitting the barrel.

I now have a question. Does the barrel once free move both ways and return back to the center when the key is removed. Also does the connecting rod from the door barrel lever that fits into the lower lever actuator for the door lock mechanism hold the lever midway when the key is removed or does it push the lever down.
Testing the switch that the lever operates inside the door lock mech, I get an on signal with the lever fully up and fully down ( this is the lever that the door barrel operates via the link rod) and a open signal in between. I presume the barrel sits centrally and only operates the switch inside the door lock mechanism when fully turned to the left or the right.

I will be putting it all back together tomorrow after removing the lock unit to test the function of all the switches. They all seem to work ok and the locking motor and superlock seem to work too when I tested them on the bench.

Its just the correct function of the barrel turning that I am not sure on and how it triggers the switch inside the door lock mechanism.

Any input will be most appreciated.

Here is a pic of the lock mech and the lever in question...



Sundance

Hi Sundance. Hmm , I have started reading this after a particularly difficult day and it's now quite late for my ageing brain to take in . All I can say without looking at my TF is I think that the latch and rods spring the key lock back to the vertical (neutral position ) because if it didn't I think the alarm unit would throw a wobbler . I'll check tomorrow and then read the second part of the question.

John

Hi Sundance,
The key lock operates both ways ( lock and unlock) and returns to the neutral position in the barrel.

Regarding the rest position for the door barrel rod, logically ,it should rest centrally at the key lock end , but its job essentially is to provide a get out of jail free option when your door lock freezes shut .The movement of the door barrel rod by the key will then release the door sill pin /superlocking pin and open the door ..
Additionally the door barrel provides a method of entering your EKA code via relays in the door lock body when your plipper battery fails ..

The passenger side does not have the extra releasing ratchet for the passenger side door sill pin ,so you can get into the driver door but still not be able to release the superlocking function ( I had this happen to me recently)

I am still working on my driver door lock , because my barrel rod was upside down compared to you picture but now i have fixed that inconvenience and should be able to release both door handle /barrel rods in the way the service manual shows.

I am trying replace my failing drivers door lack ( it has the rattles) with one I serviced a while ago.

I have by the way already replaced the SCU relays ( central door locking and superlocking) to remove these from the problem

It sounds as though you are dissecting and repairing door locks , am I right in saying that MGF mk2 and all TF.s to 2005 use the same 2 leaded mech?

Mike

Well I have sorted out the problem, Yes the door lock operates both ways and returns to the centre position, as stated above. My bench test of the lock mechanism proved it was all ok, so I had to look at the lock barrel, which is what I was playing with in the first place.
I noticed that the black plastic grommet that the rod is bushed into the barrel lever with was well worn and the hole enlarged which was allowing the actuating rod to drop a few millimeters more than it should. SInce before the lock barrel was seized up, it was not causing a problem, but now the barrel was free and sitting central, it was allowing the lever to drop and just operate the switch in the lock mechanism (the one with the yellow circle in my picture in the post above). My solution was to re-bush the lever with a small Meccano part called a mini rubber pulley. It has perfect dimentions and sits in the barrel lever snugly and holds the connecting rod firm but with enough slack to allow it to move. It also eliminates any rattle in the lever!
The door locks perfect again and with a little adjustment on the lock and door stops, the door now closes like one on a golf!

I did not have to strip the lock down for repair as it worked ok, but I would have given it a go if it needed to be looked at. The funny thing is in 16 years of TF ownership, I have never had to insert the key into the door lock before. At least its sorted now for a few more years anyhow.

Here is the Meccano rubber pulley shown with the original plastic bush.

Sundance

all very interesting-my door handle barrel had a similar black rubber grommet in it and not the more usual white plastic holder -
Bye the way was your original barrel lever problem causing a rattle noise in the door lack area then?

Mike

Well there's nothing I can add to this post as Mike is spot on . I did do a short video of my TF while unlocking the drivers door this morning but there's no need to post it now as you are sorted . Tricky little buggers these latches , don't you think ? :yesnod: