Re:Using lacquer
Hi all
I've been doing a bit of de-rusting on my TF135 at the front edge of the offside sill, having removed the arch liner and cleaning out the crud behind it. I've primed the area and now need to apply top coat. My question is, when do you apply the clear coat, I've read that it should be done before the top coat is dry, also read the opposite. Also what is the best way of blending/polishing. I know it's difficult getting a good finish with rattle cans so would be grateful for any tips anyone has to get the best finish that I can.
cheers
Jon
I've been doing a bit of de-rusting on my TF135 at the front edge of the offside sill, having removed the arch liner and cleaning out the crud behind it. I've primed the area and now need to apply top coat. My question is, when do you apply the clear coat, I've read that it should be done before the top coat is dry, also read the opposite. Also what is the best way of blending/polishing. I know it's difficult getting a good finish with rattle cans so would be grateful for any tips anyone has to get the best finish that I can.
cheers
Jon
by rosey
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- BruceTF135
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Good question! I have been deliberating over the same job on mine but keep putting it off due to the same uncertainties.
by BruceTF135
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All I can add is that at the factory (ex employee) the base coat was flashed off (semi dry) before clear coat, I allow about 20 minutes with rattle cans and dust coat little and often and I have achieved good finishes.
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by Steve
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Thanks Steve, will try this. Is there a way of trying to blend in a repair once the lacquer is dry?
cheers
Jon
cheers
Jon
by rosey
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If you are very careful you could use a very fine wet and dry paper to feather in the two surfaces but you really need a da polisher to cut it back again, personally I would just cut it back with something like g3, I have used brasso in the past to cut laquer by hand to good effect but it does take some effort but is less aggressive. Good luck
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by Steve
The following user(s) said Thank You: rosey
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