Soft top woes...

Hi all,

Been some hard work but finally almost removed all of the green mould from the soft top! lots of beer and swearing but with more beer and maybe a bit more beer I should have that done!

I'm just wondering about the rear window... the panel itself is sound with no creases or splits, but I've tried all sorts of plastic polish/glass cleaner etc etc... and still not clearing up...

I know these can be replaced for about £45, but is it worth resorting to a bit more brutal method of using fine grade wet/dry to remove the oxidisation? My thinking is that If I have to resort to having it replaced as a worse case scenario then anything is worth a try?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Andy

I used Meguiars PlastX on mine but I have heard that Greygate is good. It took a bit of effort but yours looks worse than mine was unless that really heavily marked stuff is condensation.

I'd be tempted to try T-Cut or some kind of metal polish like Solvol Autosol or even Brasso before finishing off with your plastic polish.

I'd say well done you, what a good job credit! Sounds like a plan to use some soft of abrasive liquid, but I'd imagine if you scratch it, that's it? If you're not in a rush, then keep watching the thread, someone always comes along with 'the answer' at sometime.

Maybe a garden greenhouse cleaner might work?

Thanks for the support guys...

I'd pretty much resigned myself to just getting it replaced.. but you've given me a renewed will to beat it...

the oxidisation almost looks like the soft top was left down for a prolonged period and gathered rain water on the rear screen, or perhaps kept under a tree partially in the shade?!?...

I have access to some pretty heavy duty aerospace cleaners (MEK - Methyl Ethyl Ketone) but don't want to risk drying it out with solvents If I can avoid it!

Maybe Cillit Bang is the next step ! :lol:

I used brasso on mine and it came up really clear although with all the heavy handling the stitching I was un aware was going rotten and the screen came adrift so all the effort was wasted so I found a glass screen and fitted that instead.

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MEK will do the plastic no end of no good, don't do it! Very mild abrasive, for example Farecla g3, is probably the best thing for the plastic, as it contains no ammonia nor heavy petrol solvents. It will leave white marks on the cloth so cover the edges of that with neat fairy liquid before starting. UV damage makes the plastic brittle so it takes care to get it right. Armorall is often pretty good at restoring a bit of flexibility and transparency to plastics and will not harm the hood fabric. Clean that by scrubbing with a shoebrush using neat Lidl baby shampoo. Rinse that off and when it is completely Gobi Desert dry again, re proof the top with Fabsil.

Steve wrote:

I used brasso on mine and it came up really clear although with all the heavy handling the stitching I was un aware was going rotten and the screen came adrift so all the effort was wasted so I found a glass screen and fitted that instead.

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Never thought of that... are you suggesting the can of liquid or the duraglit style dubbing?

minimax wrote:

MEK will do the plastic no end of no good, don't do it! Very mild abrasive, for example Farecla g3, is probably the best thing for the plastic, as it contains no ammonia nor heavy petrol solvents. It will leave white marks on the cloth so cover the edges of that with neat fairy liquid before starting. UV damage makes the plastic brittle so it takes care to get it right. Armorall is often pretty good at restoring a bit of flexibility and transparency to plastics and will not harm the hood fabric. Clean that by scrubbing with a shoebrush using neat Lidl baby shampoo. Rinse that off and when it is completely Gobi Desert dry again, re proof the top with Fabsil.

Yeah MEK is pretty brutal... thank god the days of Trike are long gone that was even worse! although you've got me thinking... Sky-restore might be worth a try... we used that on transparencies...

Sky Restore? No thanks. Anything that will soften Polysulphide sealants will certainly leave you with a clear rear view. But it WILL be draughty! Stick to the mild abrasives. The outer layer is where it yellows by all accounts and plenty of people have polished it out. Think there is a hood with a tear in it for about £20 round our way on Marketplace. Don't know if the window is any good It is in Broadstone.

MEK is nasty stuff. Back in my 10 pin bowling days (early 70's) it was used to soak 10 pin bowling balls to soften them for better traction and less 'slide'.
I would think it would melt a plastic window very quickly. Stick with polishes like brasso.

What about those kits you can get for refacing plastic headlights would they work or too abrasive, I'm just thinking one of those kits and a battery drill would save a lot of elbow grease but then again I'm a lazy git.