Airportable

My lad has one of those, it’s a remarkable piece of kit, it nearly ripped my arm off the first time I used it.
The only credible replacement once you are used to using it is probably a silverback gorilla with a long breaker bar extension pole.
M

Thanks chaps I must give those little buggers a squeeze of grease over this weekend. I’ve a replacement set of suspension arms with lowering knuckles refurbished & ready to fit. It should have been done twelve months ago.
M

As Bruce says there is a check list on here, as per his link & there are several good parts suppliers. I suspect your location might govern your choices, I live in the north of England & tend to gravitate towards ‘Bitz at Glossop, mind you judging by any number of comments on here; if you live north of Dover ‘Bitz is popular.
M

If you simply want to remove a stud from the hub casting, I would find a nut of the appropriate size, run it down the thread until as much of the thread is within the nut & give it a stout clout with a big hammer. They have grooves rolled into the blank end which cut into the casting when they are pressed in, so “just a clout will get one out”.
M

My local “Nut, Screws, Washers & Bolts” suppler was taken over by a conglomerate, they calculate shelf space costs into the end product price. If the product sells poorly it may be discontinued or the price rises to pay for its shelf space, folk won’t pay over the odds & so the product is discontinued; a self full fill prophecy.
This happened with my friend John & he retired having built the company from military surplus parts.
I went to get some M10 x 1.25pitch high tensile countersink screws & was met with a blank stare.
“Never stocked them” said the youth behind the now barricaded counter & in shocking English.
I showed him one which came from them & he shrugged.
All the original staff had long gone.
“Anyway they come in boxes of 100.
I now buy off eBay, put up with the wait & having to pay carriage disguised in the price.
Nut, screws, washers & bolts isn’t a newspaper report of an crazed assailant running off after a rape in a laundrette.
M

I might have been tempted with one of those had it been bigger; big enough to encompass most of the boot rack.
It’s the only thing I could ever imagine on my rack. Mind you the only financial implications involved the cost of two keys & a wipe over with an oily rag.
It now lives on top of a wardrobe in a spare bedroom.
M

Geography geography geography! Don’t it create problems , especially with the North Sea in the way. If you were local, 75mile radius, you could have popped around & borrowed my taps & dies, in fact you could have taken mine & I’d make some more, assuming there was some advantage in fitting them.
I’ve have some reasonable schrader valves also & fittings to weld into spheres, again that was a job for my spare spheres but I’m now to old to be arsed.
The offer stands if you want a week or so in the UK.
M

Let’s try again with the photographs

As promised, a few pictures to illustrate.
These speak for themselves really, the blanking end on the pipe was a cobbling job when I started to think about the system & the point about scrapyard parts is underwritten by the rusty nut adjacent to the valve.
Those who have the Satur or the Suplex systems, how did you rate the change over.
David it’s better to grit your teeth & possibly sit this bit out!

I made a set a couple of years ago in readiness for jobs not yet done & one reason for this is the dearth of information on the advantages of having them fitted.
Is it to compensate for a sagging sphere or is it a “track day” mod’?
The beauty of hydro gas is the interlinked suspension, what goes up, comes down, to compensate & it’s this that provides the unique properties of this system in a sports car.
Taking this to its logical conclusion ; remove all the interlinked pipe work & fill each sphere individually via a shrader valve fitted locally.
This need not involve having a valve on the unit, it can be achieved by using a further two
RNP100180 pipes, complete with the Schader valve (off a scrapper).
These would be fitted with an end blank & applied to the rear & the front network, as normal but again with blanks to localise the fluid to the front spheres.
I’ll leave this here for now, but when I have the car out after & I can safely lift the boxes down I’ll take some photographs to illustrate.
M