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  • I have posted several time about both the benefits of four wheel alignment and also double checking if they are using the correct data, ATS for one doesn't. I also keep getting surprised how different brands of tyres can be very detrimental. I decided to get my five spoke wheels powder coated, I took them to be refurbished (Anthracite) while on holiday and put on a spare set of wheels fitted with APLUS branded tyre made in 2020, correct tyre sizes and XL rated. After returning from holiday I collected the wheels and had the Falkens refitted but my wife drove the TF a few times with the APLUS tyres, on Monday evening she told me to sell the TF because it was dangerous to drive. I have fitted the refurbished wheels with Falken's and all is well now, she had no idea that the offending tyres were not Falken's but she could tell me the difference just from driving the car.
    I think that when the current Falken's and the Toyo TR1 are replaced with new versions our cars will really struggle to find decent tyres, our cousins in the USA have a much wider range of brands to choose from and much "grippier" rubber as well.
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  • MGB281 replied to the topic WHEEL NUTS in MGF/TF Pitstop
    AS Airportable says you can replace the stud quite easily, I even managed to wiggle longer studs in. However I didn't have the brake calliper attached at the time, it may need to be removed .
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  • They aren’t mine, I just noticed them on eBay :beer:
    By a strange coincidence I weighed a spare rear subframe and it was 48kgs. When I say bare no alloy engine mount but had upper and lower links both sides and both trailing arms plus a fair bit of rust around the front mounts. That’s an awful lot of weight for a subframe
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  • MGB281 created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    These subframes are on EBay ;
    MGF Front And Rear Subframe Galvanised
    Completed

    I had a pair galvanised and although re tapping all the threaded holes was a bit of a pfaff (extra long taps) the subframes will now last for ever. These at £270 are a bargain
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  • I wanted some of those csk M10 bolts for a V6 engine conversion on my MGB. I went to Western Bolt and the owner just said “how long, how many”
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  • Although mine were badly corroded I took them to Western Bolt (two miles away) and they just asked “how many”. I think they were about 10p each. Although they are an industrial supply company they have never failed t come up with any fixing I have needed for my MG’s
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  • I suggest that you Jack the car up one corner at a time and using a pry bar check for any movement or soft bushes. I replaced every bush and ball joint during refurbishment and it was still very noisy, a second four wheel alignment vastly reduced the knocking noise. New polybushes for the engine mounts because the exhaust down pipe knocks the subframe on severe bumps.
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  • MGB281 replied to the topic FRONT BRAKES in MGF/TF Pitstop

    Sorry made a real prat of myself looking at the wrong master cylinder Good job there is a forum to correct stupid mistakes Len


    Always remember that the person who never made a mistake never made anything
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  • If it has a KMaps upgrade it could have the pops and bangs addition, I didn’t want it on ours.
    Over fifty years ago I used to drive a petrol LandRover to go to social events. Coming home late at night we would turn off the ignition while driving through the small villages for a couple of seconds then back on again which resulted in an almighty bang. I have now grown up a little.
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  • I would take it back and get them to get the rear camber correctly adjusted. Yours being a 2003 car has adjustable lower links, that is unless you have fitted the later fixed length ones. The adjustable links could be rusted solid which may explain why they haven’t done it though. It’s a bit of a pfaff to get it right because adjusting the camber alters the toe in so they have to adjust both simultaneously. If you set the toe then the camber the toe will be incorrect again, it’s a case of keeping making small adjustments until both are correct. Having said that I don’t think the rear camber would have such an affect on the stability of the car, I am sure that you have play some where.
    A few years ago my middle son who bought a Ford Ka to flip, the seller told him that he had hit a kerb and bent the front suspension. All new parts were fitted but the car was just like you describe, the seller gave up and my son bought it with the defect. The first thing he did was to get the tracking done but there was no improvement, he had the tracking done a second time and still no improvement. Neither establishment could offer an explanation. One day he brought it over to me and I jacked the front end up and using a pry bar found one of the bushes was perished. I presume the shock of hitting the kerb was transferred from the offside to near side which caused it to fail. A new bush cured the problem, I suggest doing the same with a pry bar to see if you have any play.
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