WHEEL NUTS

Hello I`ve finished the O/S and rear of the car.So I moved the "tent" I built round it to get to the N/S where I knew there was work to do, apart from the paint work someone had driven too close to a post. I wanted to start on the brakes Ive reconditioned the O/S so the N/S was next some one had tried to remove the wheel nuts as the chrome cover was missing on the one and it had been badly chewed up Ive tried everything to remove it, even trying to weld a socket onto the nut , but no luck .Ive removed two studs but I had to use a 4 foot length of steel tube to get the two off The other problem is there is a security nut on the one stud and I dont have a matching socket to fit it Any answers please Im wondering if I could drill down the centre of the damaged stud to get rid of the thread in it .I know Ill have to fit a new wheel stud .Now can the old on be knocked out with the hub still on the car Len

Irwin do a socket which had a left hand course spiral machined into it, once engaged with the remains of the nut & torque is applied the spiral bites into the nut. The more grunt you apply the greater is the bite until something gives.
Irwin tools took over Record & a number of other UK tool manufacturer & china has become the source of some items in the range; what’s fresh?
These work well & a set of Chinese branded items will cost you a tenner, there again you want the situation to improve, so I would search out the Irwin items.
M

Do you intend to retain the wheel if you get the nuts off? Or is that scrap?
No immediate solution comes to mind but the Irwin grips mentioned in #2 must be a good bet.
If the wheel is scrap that might open up other possibilities although as said nothing obvious.

Mprning,I contacted the previous owner who likes to be kept in touch with the restoration .I asked if he knew where the key was for the locking wheel nuts and it was under the carpet in the corner of the boot Now I have this I removed the rear wheel and the locking nut on the front .so today a friend who is an engineer and myself are going to tackle the one remaining wheel nut I would like to salvage the wheel,which I can restore Len

The original chrome wheel nut covers look good and are generally ok but its essential the correct size socket is always used otherwise they can easily become graunched up as they rotate in relation to the nut. If they look as though they have twice as many points as they should or appear rounded they are best binned and replaced as they will be a struggle to get a socket onto at the side of the road. Thankfully 2nd hand wheelnuts with intact chrome covers are still fairly easy to find.

My friend who is an engineer ,came to help me today to remove the damaged wheel stud.He managed to drill down the centre of the stud and with a bit of brute force we got the wheel off Now to fit a new stud.Can this be done in situ with the disc only removed Len

From what I recall there is one spot where you can remove & reinstate a standard stud, although an amount of judicious grinding might be required if you wish to install longer studs. This is recommended if you were to fit wheel spacers.
It’s quite a while since I replaced a stud in this way & the memory fades.
So best of luck & hope my memory of this job is off an MG & not any other car I’ve had dealings with.
M
M

AS Airportable says you can replace the stud quite easily, I even managed to wiggle longer studs in. However I didn't have the brake calliper attached at the time, it may need to be removed .

Finally removed caliper carrier .One bolt had a rounded head and couldnt shift it,but old faithfull Oxy Acet payed on bolt head and carrier ,I then managed to drive a smaller socket onto the damaged head and it was easy to undo .Getting there slowly but it does show how many years it hadnt been touched Len

Thanks for the message .I have a problem trying to remove the two securing screws holding the disc on When I first saw them they looked brand new ,but like the rest of the braking system they refuse to budge Ive tried fitting a screw driver in and clouting them also heating them up .So I`m trying to drill the c/s head off see if that works .The brake parts have really out up a fight to remove them holding my restoration up But I suppose thats the joy of classics Len

I've always found the only way to remove disc and drum brake retaining screws it to use an impact screwdriver

give it a good whack with a 4lb (2 kg) hammer

and they should then undo easy

My little box of left hand cobalt drills have paid dividends (thanks for the tip Cobb’s). The heat created & the “reverse” direction frightens the little buggers right out of their rust pit. You need a reversible drill obviously, most of us will have battery drills as normal.
I have used Allen headed stainless screws with a dob of copper grease on all I work on but do run an M6 tap down the hub hole to clear out all the rubbish.
You will most probably do this as a matter of course but I included it as an aid memoir for those who might be new to greasy hands. Copper grease on the cleaned up mating surface between hub & disc.
M