Hello from Devon!
Hi All
I find myself being an unexpected MG owner so thought I'd pop in and say hello!
My father bought a TF back in 2008 but found in recent years it wasnt getting much use at all - so decided to sell it. The car is fairly special for a few reasons so I was loathed to see it go outside of the family. I hastily sold the SLK that was sat in the garage to make space and took it off his hands at the weekend.
Its a 2002 TF Sprint VVC with only 27k miles on it. Its had the subframes powder coated, fully polybushed, stainless brake lines and steel coolant lines. There's a bilstein comfort handling pack, big brakes on the front (possibly standard on the 160/Sprint?), a daytona exhaust and a bespoke leather interior. Head gasket has been done, as has the clutch. Its been garaged most of its life, last few years under a proper outdoor car cover. So there's a bit of pressure to keep it perfect!
I've got a few things to tinker with so will probably be looking for some guidance in due course. But the hitlist for now is mainly due to having done 2k miles in 3 years...
I find myself being an unexpected MG owner so thought I'd pop in and say hello!
My father bought a TF back in 2008 but found in recent years it wasnt getting much use at all - so decided to sell it. The car is fairly special for a few reasons so I was loathed to see it go outside of the family. I hastily sold the SLK that was sat in the garage to make space and took it off his hands at the weekend.
Its a 2002 TF Sprint VVC with only 27k miles on it. Its had the subframes powder coated, fully polybushed, stainless brake lines and steel coolant lines. There's a bilstein comfort handling pack, big brakes on the front (possibly standard on the 160/Sprint?), a daytona exhaust and a bespoke leather interior. Head gasket has been done, as has the clutch. Its been garaged most of its life, last few years under a proper outdoor car cover. So there's a bit of pressure to keep it perfect!
I've got a few things to tinker with so will probably be looking for some guidance in due course. But the hitlist for now is mainly due to having done 2k miles in 3 years...
- One of the front calipers is a bit lazy/sticking and the lovely red is a bit faded. Will probably send all 4 off for a refurb and powder coating
- While I'm at it, I might fit the rear big brake kit
- Apparently one of the top mounts is a bit worn, need to delve a bit deeper on that one
- It fairy consistently has failed emissions tests but after a good blast passes again. Garage thought there might be a bit of a misfire, so will get my OBD reader on it and see if I can pick anything up
- It was last serviced 2 years ago where it had everythring including cambelt, but its only done about 300 miles since then. I'll probably change the oil and filters regardless
- Tempted by the Kmaps remap...
by iaind
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Hi and welcome to the forum
Sounds like a well loved car and very special.
Have a look at the www.pscan.uk as an upgrade to your OBD2 reader. As an added incentive you can now use it to get a SAWS Tuning - Custom MG Rover Remaps in your driveway without removing the ECU. There is a subforum as part of the t-bar at MGF & MG TF Owners Forum - pscan.uk diagnostic tool - (the-t-bar.com)
I have fitted heated seat elements in 2 sets of MGF seats and 1 set of ZS seats, definatly worth doing and not difficult if you work sensibly. MG/Rover workshop manuals advise disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes before touching any part of the SRS system, including the seat belt pre-tensioners. You will need a T50 torx bit to get the seats out and disconnect the seatbelts from the seats. I got one on a 1/2" socket head from Halfords.
Keep us updated on your journey, and some photos would be nice.
James
Sounds like a well loved car and very special.
Have a look at the www.pscan.uk as an upgrade to your OBD2 reader. As an added incentive you can now use it to get a SAWS Tuning - Custom MG Rover Remaps in your driveway without removing the ECU. There is a subforum as part of the t-bar at MGF & MG TF Owners Forum - pscan.uk diagnostic tool - (the-t-bar.com)
I have fitted heated seat elements in 2 sets of MGF seats and 1 set of ZS seats, definatly worth doing and not difficult if you work sensibly. MG/Rover workshop manuals advise disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes before touching any part of the SRS system, including the seat belt pre-tensioners. You will need a T50 torx bit to get the seats out and disconnect the seatbelts from the seats. I got one on a 1/2" socket head from Halfords.
Keep us updated on your journey, and some photos would be nice.
James
Home to black Alfa Romeo 159 3.2 V6 Q4 ,green MGF VVC and red MG Maestro T16.
MG - the friendly marque.
by talkingcars
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Thanks for the pointers James, I'll definitely check those bits out!
Good tip on the battery, I did inherit the workshop manual too but havent looked at it yet. Fortonately there's a battery isolator on it too so will flip that off now so I dont forget!
Maybe you could help my understanding on the heated seats - 've read the guide on here
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/21-david-aiketgate-s-guides/16625-heated-seats-how-to-fit-heat-pads
But its unfrotuantely its missing the images as its so old now. I cant work out how I'm supposed to get the rings/cable ties through the heater pad. I assume these things are OK to trim length wise so for the back I can trim it down and push it up as far as the crossbar which should be plenty. But for the base, there's 2 bars across the middle of the seat so I need to get the pad past them. Can I just cut holes in the pads? The kit arrived, looks good quality but sadly devoid of instructions.
The car is tucked up in the garage at the moment so hard to get pictures, as soon as its nice enough out to get it onto the drive and give it a wash I'll post some pics
Good tip on the battery, I did inherit the workshop manual too but havent looked at it yet. Fortonately there's a battery isolator on it too so will flip that off now so I dont forget!
Maybe you could help my understanding on the heated seats - 've read the guide on here
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/21-david-aiketgate-s-guides/16625-heated-seats-how-to-fit-heat-pads
But its unfrotuantely its missing the images as its so old now. I cant work out how I'm supposed to get the rings/cable ties through the heater pad. I assume these things are OK to trim length wise so for the back I can trim it down and push it up as far as the crossbar which should be plenty. But for the base, there's 2 bars across the middle of the seat so I need to get the pad past them. Can I just cut holes in the pads? The kit arrived, looks good quality but sadly devoid of instructions.
The car is tucked up in the garage at the moment so hard to get pictures, as soon as its nice enough out to get it onto the drive and give it a wash I'll post some pics
by iaind
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Last Edit:3 years 10 months ago
by iaind
Last edit: 3 years 10 months ago by cairnsys. Reason: Insert pics
The following user(s) said Thank You: Leigh Ping, sworkscooper
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Hi and welcome. I haven’t been on here for far too long.
by MrOrange
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