Fitting a sump baffle

Started to get some of my parts mountain out of the spare bedroom and onto the car. First up was my 4-2-1 manifold and sump baffle. So in true jack of hearts style here is my half arsed how-to

Firstly a sump baffle is mainly a used as security/insurance gizmo for you engine. security against oil starvation. As you corner the oil in your sump moves, the harder you corner the more it moves. The oil pick up pipe on the k series is smack bang in the middle of the sump, so long hard cornering moves the oil away from this pick up point. Result? well your getting no oil to your engine whilst your using it hard. Lets just say you wont finish your track day, and you'll need a lift home

So to start, the exhaust is in the way, now if you are only doing the sump baffle you will only need to remove the down pipe, on mems2j cars this will be 4 bolts half up the engine, on mems3 its 6 bolts. These are protected by there position on the engine, so usually come off fairly easily. However i was replacing my whole manifold, so it was a cover off job. Which meant a phone call to the local orphanage to let them know of there instant death




next come the cat bolts. these are the exact opposite of easy, and you will need your best swear words for this one as they (usually) are blobs of rust. Amazingly mine came straight off, id like to think it was the 6 sided socket and the wd40 we soaked them in, but thats a lie.

next take your car for a wee



whilst thats on, remove your engine steady bar ( terrible picture )



now on every other tf accept the 160, the next step is remove the sump. however on the 160, rover in there great wisdom decided to mount a plate on one side of the sump and connect the oil pipes from the oil cooler here. Then they decided to put the bolts of the plate in the most inconvient place in the world 1cm away from the subframe. With zero access to get even a thumb nail in there. For this you have two very differnt choices.

firstly you could to dismantle the drivers side engine mount and with engine hoist slowly lower the engine on that side so you have access. Its only one bolt.

OR

you could get a razor discs and woop the head off the bolt and move the plate out of the way, once the sump is off get a pair of molegrips to remove the shaft and replace it with a short hex head.

right sump off



100 geek points if anyone can spot why i was particularly pleased with what i saw here

closer picture of my joy.



the black UFO is the oil pickup pipe, as mentioned before

Next the actual sump baffle, there are a couple on the market. I of course go for the 'QuickJack' version



the QuickJack version is in 3 plates and just slots together like so



next up and this is very important, you must clean the sealing face of the sump, we used a red scotch pad, as long as its clean you can use what ever you like, But it must be clean, Next you want a instant gasket, i used blue hylomar cause im posh,



make sure you cover the surface and leave no gaps.

Then in true haynes style, fitting is the reverse of removal.



I changed my oil filter whilst i was on, i happened to get a genuine part from ebay for about £4, but tbh there all a much of muchness, I usually use the K&N version because it has a very handy hex head on the end.

Much love

jack

Wow well done ! Great job

The baffles were much easier to fit into mine... As the engine was Aston the kitchen floor lol

I personally think everyone should fit sump baffles... It should become the law :broon:

Last time i fitted them, the engine was on a engine stand, sooooooo much easier

Great guide. Added to the lists found via the big orange button on your left. :broon:

HI interesting to know K and N do oil filters for the car did know they did filters but not for MGFs/TFs