How to fit seat lowering springs

I ordered a set of seat lowering springs from the MGOC (they are also available from Brown & Gammons) and converted the passenger seat yesterday (as the driver's seat is also going to be recovered that will have to wait). The kit contains 8 springs which is sufficient for both seats and was made by Newton Commercial. The instructions were OK but like most seemingly simple MGF jobs, there is a knack to some of it.

The whole idea is to replace 4 rigid clips or rods on the underside of the seat with 4 springs which allow the cushion to sink a bit when you sit on it.. How much it sinks depends a bit on your weight but don't expect too much extra movement.

This is the spring compared to the clip it replaces:



As usual disconnect the battery and leave for 20 minutes or so before starting - the seats are connected to the SRS and you don't want any airbags going off!



Then it's a good idea to remove the headrest (and work with the hood down)



The seat has 4 Torx T50 bolts holding the frame in the car torqued to 45 newton metres. A long handled ratchet is essential as is a Torx T50 bit.



I find it easier to undo the front bolts first then the rear ones. The inner rear bolt can be a bit awkward.



Even with the seat slid rearwards, I don't have enough clearance to undo the seat belt bolt in situ with my tools so that's done once it is loose from the floor.



Then undo the SRS connection



now see part 2 to remove the rodsand fit the springs.

This is part 2

The 4 metal rods or clips now need to be removed from the underside of the seat.

They can be knocked out of the seat frame with a screwdriver (not your best one) and a sharp blow with a hammer near where they clip in to the frame.





The clips then need to be removed from the rubber diaphram, This is a bit fiddly as it's not that easy to open the closed end of the clip. I found that opening it a bit with 2 pairs of pliers then gripping it with some pliers while knocking it in to the seat cushion worked.

With the pins removed, it's easy to fit a pair of springs to one side but the fun begins with the second pair as you need to pull against the springs to fit them. An assistant at this point is more or less essential. I found the connecting the spring to the frame then using some cord to pull the spring to the diaphram while my assistant held the seat and pulled the diaphram to the spring worked quite well.



NB the cord was threaded through the hole in the diaphram to encourage the spring to clip in.




The seat refits in the reverse order of removal and of course it's a great chance while it is out for a good clean around. Sadly I didn't find any monery under the seat. When the battery is reconnected you will need to re-set your clock and probably your radio code. I did use a bit of copper grease when I refitted the seat bolts even though this can affect the torque settings - 45 nm is plenty!

Richard

excellent guide :beer:

Great guide! Would you recommend this mod? Do you feel more like you are sitting in the car rather than on it?

MrMaltby wrote: Great guide! Would you recommend this mod? Do you feel more like you are sitting in the car rather than on it?

I've heard that this mod is particularly useful for the taller driver. Either way, it's another superb guide for the collection. :yesnod: Thanks Richard. :broon:


SEATS & SEATBELTS
Seats - Removal guide.
Seat Belts - Replacement guide.
Seats Heated - Fitting guide, heated pads.
Seats leather - Renovation guide.
Seat Lowering - Seat lowering spring fitting guide.

MrMaltby wrote: Great guide! Would you recommend this mod? Do you feel more like you are sitting in the car rather than on it?

I'll have a better idea when I've done the driver's seat. The seat covers in my 1.8i are strange in that they are the mirage style used on the 1.6 - the sort that has the vinyl sides without the mirage inserts in the bolsters. Last year I changed the driver's backrest cover as it had the usual bolster damage but the only cover I could get was the 'correct' type with the inserts. I've now found the matching cushion cover so I'll end-up with 2 different seat cover styles but at least each seat will be the same. As I was doing the cover I thought I'd also fit the springs. I don't think the difference will be radical but it should help a bit and may be will add to the comfort. The springs may need a bit of running in too.

Richard

I fitted them last month to my TF160

My friend has an identical 160, with standard clips, neither of us can find much difference frankly, we are both about 5'8 and medium build ,seats possibly feel a little springier over bumps, but that's about it.

Maybe they settle after a while ?

I did this same job just last week; bought mine directly from Newton Commerical. I put the until the seat frame first and then used a pair of needle-nose "Vice-Grips" to connect the spring the the diaphram, which worked very well.

So I'm now working on the driver's seat which is having a new cushion cover as well as the lowering springs. I'm thinking about doing something a bit different and I'd be interested in your thoughts.

As I'm recovering the cushion I've stripped the seat right down. It makes access to the clip/springs a doddle.

This is how the standard base looks with the 4 clips still in place:



When you press on the rubber membrane there is quite a bit of give in it.

This is how the base looks with the 4 springs replacing the clips:





When you press on the membrane it gives as before and eventually the springs start to extend but not be a lot. In the real world you would have the foam taking some of the pressure and your weight would be well spread. I'm cough, cough about 84Kg in driving clothing and I don't think I'm going to be extending these springs much at all (ie very little gain).

So my first thoughts were to extend the springs with some extra clips but everything was just too slack. So I then thought what happens if I only use 2 springs instead of 4?






The springs removed are in the middle of the seat. Now when you press on it the membrane moves a lot more as it's not so restrained and the rear springs open too as there are now only 2 rather than 4. I tried putting the foam back on and sitting in the seat and while it feels odd without the backrest, my nether regions were much closer to the floor.

So should I rebuild the seat with just 2 springs? I could always add the 2nd pair later on if it feels wrong. Clearly everything bends a lot more with just 2 springs rather than 4 clips but my impression is that the 2 bits of metal fore and aft in the membrane are quite springy and up to the strain. I plan to recover the cushion in the next couple of day so would appreciate any thoughts on 2 springs versus 4.

Richard

As you said Richard, there's only one way to find out. :yesnod:

Not sure what you could cover it with.

Cracking guide richard, I would agree you car only try it doesn't feel right or look right then you can always add in the other 2 springs. Aplolgies for missing the cub meeting a while back was unfortunatly at work hopefully my rota will allow me to get the car out for a few runs this year.

Guys, thanks for the comments. I've just finished fitting the new seat cover to the cushion and will reassemble the whole seat this afternoon with just the 2 springs in place. Unfortunately refitting it to the car today looks unlikely as I need to do it out of my tiny garage and with the roof down and we have heavy rain.....tomorrow afternoon may be better.

I've taken photos of the cover fitting and may try to post a separate 'how to' on that.

Richard