red calipers
Hi all
This is just a warning if you have the red calipers on your car. my pins were solid and had to be cut out as the last people to replace my discs [ 5yrs ago ] never put any copper grease on the pins
This is just a warning if you have the red calipers on your car. my pins were solid and had to be cut out as the last people to replace my discs [ 5yrs ago ] never put any copper grease on the pins
BILSTIEN DAMPERS, 4-2-1 MANIFOLD, HEAD WORK BY SABRE.
Last Edit:10 years 4 months ago
by helsbyman
Last edit: 10 years 4 months ago by helsbyman.
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If the pins have not been out for 5 years copper grease or not they will be siezed. The callipers are aluminium and the pins are only bright plated steel so you have oxidization and electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
I had the same issue with my ex TF Sunspeed as the car had been stood outside unused for 3 years when I bought her. I kept applying plus gas penetrating oil for a couple of days then a good quality pin punch the same diameter as the retaining pins and lump hammer.
Once the pins were out I made new ones from 316 stainless steel, prised off the circular spring retaining collets and crimped them on the new pins.
Copper slip grease is a great anti-size medium, but when used between dissimilar metals can act as a conductor and encourage electrolysis, the rock salt that’s put on our roads in winter which gets splashed up with water makes a great electrolyte for electrolysis. Marine grease would be my choice in this application as it’s a non conductor.
Maybe as part of the annual service when checking the front pads remove the pins and re-grease; as siezed pins in aluminium callipers is known issue.
Hopefully you’re sorted and now back on the road.
Brian.
I had the same issue with my ex TF Sunspeed as the car had been stood outside unused for 3 years when I bought her. I kept applying plus gas penetrating oil for a couple of days then a good quality pin punch the same diameter as the retaining pins and lump hammer.
Once the pins were out I made new ones from 316 stainless steel, prised off the circular spring retaining collets and crimped them on the new pins.
Copper slip grease is a great anti-size medium, but when used between dissimilar metals can act as a conductor and encourage electrolysis, the rock salt that’s put on our roads in winter which gets splashed up with water makes a great electrolyte for electrolysis. Marine grease would be my choice in this application as it’s a non conductor.
Maybe as part of the annual service when checking the front pads remove the pins and re-grease; as siezed pins in aluminium callipers is known issue.
Hopefully you’re sorted and now back on the road.
Brian.
Last Edit:10 years 4 months ago
by Badger
Last edit: 10 years 4 months ago by David Aiketgate. Reason: sp
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- adamelphick
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Felix's ones were the same - again not been out for years methinks. Ended up cutting them in half and easing them out after a good bashing using an old drill bit and lump hammer!
by adamelphick
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As has been mentioned, the calipers are alloy.
You shouldn't use a copper based anti seize with alloy as the 2 metals don't play nicely together.
A lot of anti seize compounds and most lubricants will eventually dry out with the high temps found in braking systems.
Nickel/graphite base anti seize can be about the best for extreme temps, @1425˚C (2600˚F) and it's Ok with alloy.
Moly based anti seize can be good to @1300˚C (2400˚F) it's good with alloy.
Zinc based anti seize is only good to @ 400˚C (750˚F) it's good with alloy but not high temp.
Non metallic based anti seize can be good to @ 1300˚C (2400˚F) it's great for all metals and can be gotten in marine grades too.
Now your calipers will have melted long before they get anywhere near those temps, (zinc base excepted) but the lubricant that keeps the metal powder in suspension, will dry out over time, regardless of temp. So an anti seize compound that isn't extremely heat tolerant is probably going to resist this drying out problem for a relatively short time.
There are more kinds of anti seize out there out there and they all have different properties type to type and even brand to brand. You need to read the label.
You shouldn't use a copper based anti seize with alloy as the 2 metals don't play nicely together.
A lot of anti seize compounds and most lubricants will eventually dry out with the high temps found in braking systems.
Nickel/graphite base anti seize can be about the best for extreme temps, @1425˚C (2600˚F) and it's Ok with alloy.
Moly based anti seize can be good to @1300˚C (2400˚F) it's good with alloy.
Zinc based anti seize is only good to @ 400˚C (750˚F) it's good with alloy but not high temp.
Non metallic based anti seize can be good to @ 1300˚C (2400˚F) it's great for all metals and can be gotten in marine grades too.
Now your calipers will have melted long before they get anywhere near those temps, (zinc base excepted) but the lubricant that keeps the metal powder in suspension, will dry out over time, regardless of temp. So an anti seize compound that isn't extremely heat tolerant is probably going to resist this drying out problem for a relatively short time.
There are more kinds of anti seize out there out there and they all have different properties type to type and even brand to brand. You need to read the label.
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by Cobber
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Marine Grease.
http://www.hss-online.co.uk/pbc-electrolytic-grease-500gm-3567-p.asp
Job done.
http://www.hss-online.co.uk/pbc-electrolytic-grease-500gm-3567-p.asp
Job done.
by Badger
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Well thanks for all that info and I think I will look at the pins once a year [ just after winter ]
BILSTIEN DAMPERS, 4-2-1 MANIFOLD, HEAD WORK BY SABRE.
by helsbyman
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