2 Tonne Trolley Jack Low Profile - modification

Having bought one of these I faced the same old issue as with my old jack...the end doesn't fit the cill profile of my TF.
So this is what I did....

1. Recycled some washing machine packing washers
2. Bought the following:
75mm x 5mm mild steel disc
Mild Steel Disc Circle 75mm(3") dia x 5mm(3/16") Pk of 2 - Laser Cut Completed
Rubber jack pad
AUDI A1 Rubber Jack Pad Trolley Jack adapter Pinch weld Rubber block Completed
3 x 3mm x 12mm CSK BZP screws
http://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/m3-csk-pozidriv-machine-screws---bzp---50-pack-2286-p.asp
3. Drilled and tapped the disc
4. Drilled the washers
5. Superglued the jack pad to the disc and assembled as follows...

Which holes did I use?


it fits into this

like this

and this...

and it works like this...

perfick!.... :yesnod: :yesnod: :broon:

Looks good!

:clap: Well Done Fatbaldingoldgit!

Excellent work. Shall have to look into something like this myself

Not recommended jacking under the cill, so many have collapsed, especially at the back, having had the rear of the cills repaired on my F the jack goes under the subframe. :clap:

If you aren't able to use the specified cill jacking points then you have bigger problems.

The cills on a monocoque body are structural. If they are so weak that you can't use the jacking points designed into them I wouldn't want to be driving that car.

Jacking on the sub frames isn't a problem, of course, but using the subframe to jack because the cills are weak isn't the solution..IMO.

I prefer to use the frames to jack the car, but mainly for cosmetic reasons: any scraping is less evident than on the sill bases. The OEM jacking points are on the sill flanges after all, so should be fit for purpose.

I agree with FBO git: if the sills are weakened so they can't be used to jack then that's a whole other problem.

I jack my Jag under the sills simply because the suspension geometry means mucho jacking before the wheel lifts off. I made a similar but far less elegant adaptor for my jolly trolley out of a piece of alloy billet ('bought' from work) with a slit milled across and with some rubber glued on.

On my F there are central jacking points front and rear. Substantial U shaped brackets that allow you to jack the front or rear of the car completely off the ground. I always use these for maintenance work. It means less jacking as you can do for example both brake callipers without lowering and re-jacking. Obviously I also use a stand on the side I'm working on and chock the other wheels.

It's a real shame and a bit of a pain that the central jacking points didn't survive into the TFs especially when bleeding the brakes...something I will have to do next week...replace all the fluid, replace the rubber hoses with stainless...and paint the callipers..and address any subframe rust before the winter arrives...bound to catch me out otherwise..