tf machine gun door lock

My drivers door lock has started making a machine gun like noise when locking using the remote fob ...I press the lock button just the once and the lock interior pin shoots down but then straight after comes the noise on a few occasions the pin has come back up and failed to lock the car but the alarm is active so when I open the door the alarm sounds.

anyway ... theres plenty to choose from ebay and quite cheap but the question is there seems to be a few variations which one is needed for my model??

All I can tell you is that its a 2003 registered at the end of september 2003 on a 53 plate

cheers folks

I think I'm right in saying any TF one will do.

You need to ensure you get a remote central locking version, not a manual one from a 1.6. :yesnod:

Hello chaps,
I am back,
just had exactly the same problem with my MGF Trophy,
whilst I was inside, hard top on, and it self locked, no way to open from inside or out.
at 70+ getting out of the passenger door sure ain't easy. :oops:
Any-one got a spare right hand door lock complete to sell?

whilst I was inside, hard top on, and it self locked, no way to open from inside or out.

:omg:



:welcome: back Ken. :broon:

Any-one got a spare right hand door lock complete to sell?

If there's no joy with that, give the breakersyards a try. :yesnod:

Just another thing to add to the list of things to do .... which is growing by the day ..

My horns stoped working again 3rd time thats happened now ... last time I blasted it with wd40 and tapped it with a hammer and its been fine but its gone again and its wearing thin now .

Door lock needs to be done asap aswell as rear tyres .

if this thing doesnt go through the next mot cleanly im just goin to get rid of it

Breakers ain't exactly thick on the ground southern France, but hey I now have it renewed (second hand/pre-owned)?
roll on the sunshine, it is trying to..

Ordered a new horn after gettin fed up of it keep sticking also ordered a second hand drivers door lock mechanism of a mg specific breakers on ebay just waiting for thrm to arrive so I can get them both swopped over hopefully on the weekend.

its booked in saturday morning to get 2 new toyo proxes t1r's fitted to the rear wheels and I can finally say good buy to the god awfull federals that are on it at the minute.

on top of that ive got to change the brake pads and fix the wiring loom for the heater blower relay on my mrs corsa ... comon fault on corsa d 's is the wiring to the connector plug for the heater relay burns out and the fan only works on position 4 , luckily vauxhall do the repair loom for 25 quid ..wankers really , they tell me its a common fault but in the next breath say that its not a recall issue cuz only a few have been returned for this fault ... corsa owners clubs are full of people with this issue mind !!

I saved the MGTF Companion PDF file about (-just ask it to TF160 ad sfr.fr, plz):
I noticed the profgram doesn't work anymore ;( on my PCs.

- 1st page (text mode):

Repairing the central locking mechanism how to

Some of you may remember at the beginning of the year I changed the passenger side door
locking mechanism as it was doing the grindy, whirry thing.

I did an autopsy on it and found that a small plastic shaft had snapped off from the main
housing, allowing a pawl to float free and not engage properly.

I had threatened at the time to repair it, but never really got around to it.

Well, I did an autopsy on the drivers side when I removed it yesterday and found exactly the
same fault. While I was in the mood I decided to fix this one (will fix the passenger one at a
later date).

The plan was to fit a new shaft to replace the snapped one. Obviously gluing the old one back
in place would not last 2 minutes. I toyed with the idea of drilling though the case and fitting
a rivet of the correct size, but this had its problems (could damage the plastic, would expand
when rivetted in place and be too wide for the pawl). So I decided to narrow the plain shank
of a screw and cut to size (8mm in length - 5mm of old shaft + 3mm depth of case). To give
extra support and strength I welded a square of metal to one end.
-

-

Changed the door lock today took the old one apart and low and behold same problem as above !! The new one is in and working perfectly although I have lost skin off my knuckles and wrist getin the old one out and new one in.
fitted new pedal rubbers and new horn and got my new toyos fitted so all is well again.

well until the wiper blade rubbers split so now need new wiper blades lol ohhh its all good fun its bloody lucky I like it lol