Underseal
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Just thought I would ask before I start getting dirty. Has anyone undersealed their " f "? What did you use ? and any places to look out for, ie, hidden nooks and crannies. ? Equally anywhere to avoid for whatever reason.
I was thinking Waxoil but that floor pan looks as though it needs something heavier.
I was thinking Waxoil but that floor pan looks as though it needs something heavier.
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- David Aiketgate
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- David
- mgf mk2 freestyle mpi 16" wheels, in Anthracite.
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jfmarlow;15663 wrote: Just thought I would ask before I start getting dirty. Has anyone undersealed their " f "? What did you use ? and any places to look out for, ie, hidden nooks and crannies. ? Equally anywhere to avoid for whatever reason.
I was thinking Waxoil but that floor pan looks as though it needs something heavier.
The obvious rust pockets are the subframes and the front suspension arms. Wheel arch edges seem to be the regular place for rust.
I would waxoyl in the subframes and use underseal on the floor pan. Check under the carpets for rust on the inside of the floor.
David
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You can get spray on underseal (usually applied with an air powered gun like this stuff
Click
) and its quite heavy duty but if it splits, water can get trapped underneath it and cause rust. Waxoyl do a black underseal that is flexible and has the anti-rust treatments added, this works well but can get washed away so you do need to re-apply every now and again.
I recently gave the underside of my MGF a thorough check and found the bits that needed attention on mine were the back end of the sills - the vertical part at right angles to the floor pan and the back edge of the floor pan where it turns to go vertical up to the engine bay
I recently gave the underside of my MGF a thorough check and found the bits that needed attention on mine were the back end of the sills - the vertical part at right angles to the floor pan and the back edge of the floor pan where it turns to go vertical up to the engine bay
MG TF LE500 27 of 500
by mgfmad
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- mikeknight
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I completely paint Hammerite Underseal (contains Waxoyl) the underside of my car once a year.
Paint it pretty much anywhere you can fit the brush, then spray Waxoyl in those places which would be too fiddly to brush underseal on. Also if you wait a few days for the underseal to harden you can spray Waxoyl on top of that too.
I've also stripped the paint and rust on the high impact wheel arch areas, back to bare metal with a high powered drill and wire wheel, then put Hammerite anti-rust primer on followed by a heavy coat of Underseal. Leaves the arches protected and looks quite snazzy black.
Paint it pretty much anywhere you can fit the brush, then spray Waxoyl in those places which would be too fiddly to brush underseal on. Also if you wait a few days for the underseal to harden you can spray Waxoyl on top of that too.
I've also stripped the paint and rust on the high impact wheel arch areas, back to bare metal with a high powered drill and wire wheel, then put Hammerite anti-rust primer on followed by a heavy coat of Underseal. Leaves the arches protected and looks quite snazzy black.
by mikeknight
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I was surprised by how much of the paint was history under our TF (reg oct 03). The 10 year old family workhorse Fiat is in better shape. I've already started to rust proof it, luckily it hasnt lost much metal yet. I have about 40 years previous on the MGB. I would not use tar underseal hard to apply and can cause more problems than it solves.. Waxoyl is very good value but does need to be re-applied every couple of years, where possible I wire brush, paint on cure rust or = then paint on hammertite. For flat surfaces that you can get to Waxoyl works well,this goes on over the hammerite although I find you need to thin it with white spirit for my cheap electric gun or just use a paint brush were access is good. For enclosed or hard to reach areas I splash out the extra and use Dintrol 3125 which has much better "creep " capabilities, but isnt cheap. you can spray it in through the drain holes, watch for it starting to blow out of the next one. You can get guides off the Dinitrol web site for how to for variuos cars. I've not been brave enough to follow the advice about drilling holes to get to some areas.
Sometimes I can use a hoist owned by a someonr I know through the car club and something that takes up a whole weekend on axle stands can be done in 1 hour including cleaning the gun afterwards.
One reason for getting the F was it is a modern car and would not take as much looking after as the B, and could be used through the winter, so much for that theory.
Sometimes I can use a hoist owned by a someonr I know through the car club and something that takes up a whole weekend on axle stands can be done in 1 hour including cleaning the gun afterwards.
One reason for getting the F was it is a modern car and would not take as much looking after as the B, and could be used through the winter, so much for that theory.
by Stan_B
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