Anyone on here ever done a DIY wheel bearing change?

Need to replace one of the rear wheel bearings, I have a friend who does a lot of mechanical goods for me, he is happy to undertake this, BUT, we need to get hold a "wheel bearing puller".. anyone know if I can hire these any where, or can it be done without it?

thatone1967;15936 wrote: Need to replace one of the rear wheel bearings, I have a friend who does a lot of mechanical goods for me, he is happy to undertake this, BUT, we need to get hold a "wheel bearing puller".. anyone know if I can hire these any where, or can it be done without it?

Machine Mart do one for just over a tenner. Here

Not done one on my TF but did a couple on an Audi a few years back and didn't need any specialist tools. Remove the circlips and drift out the old bearing with a suitably sized old socket or piece of pipe. Replace one of the circlips, then use the old bearing to drift in the new one until it meets the circlip, making sure to keep clear of the inner ring. It should then be in place for you to replace the other circlip. It is a pain in the proverbial though.

The bearing is unbelievably tight. I took Meg's front hubs both to a Mini specialist as they are the same as a Metro. The guy almost broke his press as the pressure needed to press them in was so high!

AdamElphick;15943 wrote: The bearing is unbelievably tight. I took Meg's front hubs both to a Mini specialist as they are the same as a Metro. The guy almost broke his press as the pressure needed to press them in was so high!

Mmmm - begs the question, finer engineering tolerances than the Germans or did they just make the bearing too big:whistle:

Tigger;15947 wrote: Mmmm - begs the question, finer engineering tolerances than the Germans or did they just make the bearing too big:whistle:

Much as I love my car, judging by the build quality of the rest of the car..... I think we all know the answer....

It does have to be very very tight in the hub to stop the bearing outer shell spinning and loosening... but my Mini guy said he was horrified how tight it was... aparently he was really worried about his press bursting apart as it was right at its tolerance level!

When the rears needed doing I got two off a really low mileage breaker!

Help!!! We are doing this now, and cannot get the finally assembly
Off. The top bolt is just turning, even with the assembly supported.
Any thoughts people?

Only way I know is to jack the car up using that as the jacking point so to speak - so as to jam the spindle back in the hole... failing that its cut the nut off I'm afraid and then maybe you'll need a new balljoint as well!

AdamElphick;15965 wrote: Only way I know is to jack the car up using that as the jacking point so to speak - so as to jam the spindle back in the hole... failing that its cut the nut off I'm afraid and then maybe you'll need a new balljoint as well!

Update
Have managed to get it off, taken it to a local mechanic
Turns out, the seized bearing has worn away the part it fits
Into, so I need to replace the "axle".

thatone1967;15967 wrote: Update
Have managed to get it off, taken it to a local mechanic
Turns out, the seized bearing has worn away the part it fits
Into, so I need to replace the "axle".

Sorry to hear that - always seems to end up that way when a job starts going wrong. :shake: You probably already use them but just in case follow the link - they'll have the hub you need...

http://www.mgfntfbitz.co.uk/

thoroughly recommended.

thatone1967;15967 wrote: Update
Have managed to get it off, taken it to a local mechanic
Turns out, the seized bearing has worn away the part it fits
Into, so I need to replace the "axle".

Damn - dab news - this is the reason they are so tight to try and stop this - but once seized they have great force on them to spin