New hubs and new wheel bearings.

I now have 2 new hubs and 2 new wheel bearings.

Is it just a case of fitting one of the retainer rings in the hub, press the bearing in upto the ring and then fit the 2nd retainer ring? Or is there something else I need to do?

Is it wise to lubricate the hub before pressing the bearing in, or is it best to leave it dry?

We have a press at work, so I will have a go tonight.

OK, so it looks as though you do the above, but then you have to press the drive flange into the bearing.

Talking to yourself again...?

david aiketgate wrote: Talking to yourself again...?

Sometime it helps. :silly:

You should be pressing bearings into tight holes, with or without lubricant!!! :woohoo: :whistle:

bryan young wrote: You should be pressing bearings into tight holes, with or without lubricant!!! :woohoo: :whistle:

Pressed the bearings in, but when I went to press the flanges in I noticed some damage so I have had to buy 2 new new ones.

cjj wrote:

bryan young wrote: You should be pressing bearings into tight holes, with or without lubricant!!! :woohoo: :whistle:

Pressed the bearings in, but when I went to press the flanges in I noticed some damage so I have had to buy 2 new new ones.

Ooh, was that already there or caused in the pressing?

Hi CJJ,
I used to work in the bearing trade, admittedly in the manufacturing side not design. However I still have contacts who can answer some of your questions.So here goes with there answers.
1) Do not lubricate the hub or bearing, the intention is for the bearing to lock into the hub. Any rotation can destroy the intended geometry.
2) Taper bearings carry more load than ball bearings but cost more to produce. So you get what you pay for.Go for tapers for longer life.
3) Rover or QH never produced bearings, only bought from other vendors and marked with own brand. Secondary producers are most likely Ball.
4) If you purchase from a bearing sales outlet that trades with Timken, SKF, SNR etc, they can identify the correct bearing for your car. All in a book they all have.
5) As the bearing is intended to be an interference fit some force will be needed to remove or fit the bearing. However this should not be excessive. A normal puller or small press is all that should be needed.
6) Timken produce roller only, SKF, SNR are ball other brands I am not certain of.

Hope this helps.

I found this SKF manual dealing with hub bearing replacement
http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/Resources/~/media/Files/enUS/Automotive/457809_2010.ashx

with a little more time more info can be downloaded from the manufacturer web site.

Put few drops of oil will prevent rusting and will help rings fitting, If possible I'd heat the hub for istance with an electric hair draier as that used to remove paint.
Each time you remove or reinstall a bearing you loose a little bit of the interference, when you don't have enough interference at cold you have snap fir later when th hub will warm-up you risk to have loosen bearing rings in the hub. Some specific Loctite will help.

Forgot to add a number 7). Put the bearing into a plastic bag and seal. Then put it into your deep freeze for a couple of hours. This should give you a little more clearance. But be quick when inserting.

eagle wrote: Forgot to add a number 7). Put the bearing into a plastic bag and seal. Then put it into your deep freeze for a couple of hours. This should give you a little more clearance. But be quick when inserting.

I'm always quick when inserting.

Cheers for the replys guys.

I pressed the bearings in dry as I thought it would be better for the grip. I also left the drive flanges in the fridge at work (much to their amusement) for about 4 hours before pressing into the hub/bearing.

Some pics here http://www.mgfforum.com/forum/22-cjjs-guides/19222-pressing-in-new-wheel-bearings