Jacking the MGF

This is probably old hat to all of you MGF/TF old hands but to a rookie like me this is new territory.
All of my previous MGs (MGA, MGB, Magnette) had nice sturdy crossmembers at the front and solid rear axles to place a trolley jack under.
Where are the best places to jack up an MGF? The thought of jacking under the body scares the liver out of me, and I only intend to use the factory jack for roadside emergencies.
Also, does anyone find a set of ramps useful?

Cheers,
Rich

BTW: My MGF is now in Canada and on the train to me here on the West Coast, and I am getting very, very excited. :woohoo:
My wife has taken to buying me bottles of rum to keep me sedated! :side:

I'm a bit of a rookie still myself - so I will be interested in the answer too.

Great news about the car

When is it due to arrive?

Great news that the F is getting closer, keep taking the sedation!!! :silly:

About Jacking : there are reinforced areas front and rear on the cills (where the standard jack is used) that can be used with a trolley jack, there are also central points front and rear on the subframes for jacking, all shown in the workshop manual (which can be downloaded from this forum)
I prefer to use axle stands rather than ramps, especially if you want to remove the wheels.

i always use a bit of wood on the jack platform to protect the jacking point, or you can get a jack with a rubber pad already fitted.

Please dont jack anywhere else other than the approved points.

Hope this all helps :whistle:

Thanks for the advice. It;s nice to know that the subframe has jacking points as some cars don't have that feature which makes jacking difficult and damage more likely. I'll have to pull out the manual for some light reading!
I never gave this any thought till I had a mobile service mount the snow tires on my TR7 and they had a fancy 2 jack technique to raise the car.
The MGF is now on the train so I should see it in a week to 10 days depending on rail traffic and weather. The main rail line across the Rockies was out of commission for several days recently due to avalanches so I hope that any back up has been cleared.
I'll keep you posted.

Cheers,
Rich

I always use the central jacking point:(1) This raises the entire front of the car, and then I fit axle stands.

There is(on my mk2, not sure about mk1) a rear central jacking point, that I have highlighted red in the diagram. This raise the entire rear of the car.(It's easier to see on the car than in that diagram).

Both these central jack points are loops of substantial metal bar and are very strong.

I never use the cills, except in roadside flat tyre scenarios. This since I watched a jack disappear into the cill on an old Ford of mine, many moons ago.:lol:

Thanks David,
I have also seen sills collapse on MGBs when using the factory jacking points.
That one is a double whammy as the head of the jack caves in the door as well! :oops:

I would only use the sills if you are using the factory jack or an adaptor on a trolley jack as they are shaped and you could deform them.

I use the jack on the subframe, usually on the wheel side that you are working on, or if working on both sides I jack up one side, secure on an axle stand and then jack on the other side, securing on another axle stand. Remember if you do one side at a time you are putting less weight on the jack than if you lift the rear all at once.

ALWAYS use axle stands as jacks can (and do) fail. NEVER work under a car supported by a jack.

Never use the factory jack for anything other than a quick lift or tyre change as it is not designed for high lifts or working off.

Ramps are the safest way to work under a car if you don't need to take the wheels off.

Always chock one of the remaining wheels to avoid the car rolling, especially if the rear wheels are off the ground.