My TF is pulling to the right during hard braking

I removed my home made 280mm front discs upgrade to fit 304mm with AP calipers, new discs from TRW and new pads from Ferodo FSL1995, equivalent to the OEM pads. (Only for legal reasons, I'd opportunity to bargain a set of Aps and 16" multispoke). At same time I fitted 4 new Toyos T1R and checked front toe.
I checked the height of the car, it's a TF 135 MY2002, the driver left (LHD) side front wheel arch is 5 mm higher, but with 80 kg driver the car is levelled.
I bleeded air twice from the front calipers and once at rear (240 mm disc are still with original pads, 42.000 km, they seems good), I also switched one front pad from the right side to the left. The brake pedal travel now is may be 2-3 cm, the braking point is higher than in the past, that's good. Braided hoses fitted more than 1 year ago.

BUT the car is still pulling to the right during hard braking.

I passed Italian MOT, they just control front braking unbalance, it was OK.

Really I don't know which kind of further controls I can carry-out, I've not yet checked the rear calipers hand braking. Probably after only 300 km the pads are not yet properly settled but when you buy a new car you have good braking from the first km. I've not stressed or overheated the pads at beginning. Braking is smooth without noise

It seems like the rear of the car is turning, I fill more like the back is drifting rather then a torque on the steering wheel.

How is controlled the front/rear bias on our TFs ?
Do you know if the ABS coupled with front 304 mm disc from the factory has different settings versus the 4*240 mm config

Any suggestion or explanation dealing with ABS and braking bias.

Hi mate,
I don't think there was any change in brake bias between the various options.

I would be looking for worn rear bushes and also check the rear alignment.:yesnod:

Thats a really good call David! Its more likely an alignment issue then a brake bias issue.
Chris

If it was me I would take it for a rolling brake test (often free in the UK) to see what the braking force of each unit is. If they are within spec then I would check tyre pressures.

Next I would check wheel bearings/suspension components etc for excessive wear/play. A worn bearing or trackrod end would cause a car to pull to one side.

Next I would have the car 4 wheel laser aligned. You say that you checked front toe, but how did you do it? It is quite important that these cars are set up on a professional type 4 wheel laser alignment system. Even MG recommended it in their manuals.

I would also check that the Toyos are on the correct way round as they have a direction of rotation arrow on the outside. If one is fitted the wrong way around it could cause this problem. Even if both were fitted incorrectly it would cause stability problems.

It also worries me slightly that your car isn't sitting level. The car should have the same height between tyre and wheel arch on each side. If it hasn't then you could have a worn/snapped spring or adjustable suspension fitted that is set differently on each side. This can also cause pulling to one side as one side will dive more under braking.

All excellent points, especially the 4 wheel Laser alignment and the tyre direction. the ride height too should be the same. good call :woohoo: