Proud of this solution

OK, The rear subframe is dropped - check.
The drive shafts have been removed - check ( thanks again Clive!!!! ).
The engine and gearbox are ready to lift out of the subframe- check

Now I might as well get the crank pulley bolt out as I'm going to change the head gasket and water pump ( both the cam belt and tensioner are less than 1,000 miles old ). But how am I going to lock the flywheel?

I don't know about you, but I think the flywheel locking tool is rather expensive for the job that it does and isn't easily available. So here comes the ingenious part ( well I think so anyway ).

Remove starter motor and buy an extra one of these for £3.99





Insert the spare cam locking tool as shown here










Ensure the locking tool doesn't slip as you start to take up the slack on the torque wrench. once the slack is taken up the tool will not slip out as its jammed up agains the gearbox bell housing, and it is locked into the teeth on the ring gear. Undo the bolt as you normally would do with the torque wrench.

Hope this is useful.

Rob

Looks good :thumbsup: I just bought the proper tool from MS as I was ordering a load of other bits from him at the time :lol: I've also managed to drop the odd bolt into the gearbox through the starter hole so wouldn't want to risk dropping one of those too :silly:

Certainly a cheaper solution than MSatur's £27 tool! :thumbsup:

A very valid point about droping the said tool into the bell housing.



As can be seen in the picture there are 2 holes in the cam locking tool. A piece of wire or string could be attached through the holes and tied off somewhere, thus allowing you to remove the tool if it drops down into the bell housing.

( He say's this as if he had already thought of that problem prior to it being pointed out by Gotenks1321 ....................................................................................................................................but he hadn't :whistle: :thumbsup: )

I knew those holes served a purpose! :whistle: :lol: