What do we think of this rust removal stuff?

Well hopefully overt the next few weeks I am goign to remove all the rust form the front subframe I saved from Fluer - I stumbled upon this stuff which looks like a miracle cure for rust!!

What does everyone reckon?

http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

It looks pretty impressive doesn't it.
I have used rust converters where you scrape off most of the rust then the converter chemically changes the rust into an inert substance. I didn't notice if this stuff needs to be rinsed off before painting. That would be a PITA.
Ideally I think the best route would be to have the subframe sandblasted or dipped to remove all of the old rust, but of course that gets expensive. It is a job I want to do eventually. All depends if I can find an inexpensive way to have subframes shipped over here as there are no scrapped F's in the country.

adamelphick wrote: Well hopefully overt the next few weeks I am goign to remove all the rust form the front subframe I saved from Fluer - I stumbled upon this stuff which looks like a miracle cure for rust!!

What does everyone reckon?

http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

Most of these rust removers contain Phosphoric Acid which cleans the metal and leaves a phosphate coating on the steel :broon: Have you looked at the Frosts website ??? www.frosts.co.uk they do a lot of rust removal liquids ans a very good paint system POR 15, i know lots of people who swear by it and it is far better than Hammerite. another one to try is www.rust.co.uk they do a rust converter £24.00 a litre and an Epoxy chassis paint at £26 for a 1.25 litre starter pack. The good stuff is not cheap but does its job. another tip is to waxoil the inside of the subframe after you have painted it outside. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

bryan young wrote:

adamelphick wrote: Well hopefully overt the next few weeks I am goign to remove all the rust form the front subframe I saved from Fluer - I stumbled upon this stuff which looks like a miracle cure for rust!!

What does everyone reckon?

http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

Most of these rust removers contain Phosphoric Acid which cleans the metal and leaves a phosphate coating on the steel :broon: Have you looked at the Frosts website ??? www.frosts.co.uk they do a lot of rust removal liquids ans a very good paint system POR 15, i know lots of people who swear by it and it is far better than Hammerite. another one to try is www.rust.co.uk they do a rust converter £24.00 a litre and an Epoxy chassis paint at £26 for a 1.25 litre starter pack. The good stuff is not cheap but does its job. another tip is to waxoil the inside of the subframe after you have painted it outside. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Yep had a poke around the sites - but this stuff just seems amazing! Have you checked out some of the crappy bits that seem to be rust free now? I think it looks worth a punt maybe?

Just found this on eBay which seems similar:

Evapo-Rust 1-Gallon Rust Remover, evaporust Completed

Recently I used "fertan" followed by two coats of black hammerite on a rear subframe (foreground pic). Pop fertan into your favourite internet search engine to find out more.

FERTAN


DESTROYING RUST - PROTECTING STEEL

10 year rust guarantee

Developed in Germany over 30 years ago, there is no better or easier way to achieve a corrosion free metal surface than with Fertan. The patented formula only targets the rust and, once all the rust has been dealt with it then protects the metal to prevent new rust from forming.
FEATURES & BENEFITS:

SIMPLE TO USE – Just paint, spray or sponge directly onto the rust
ELIMINATES SANDING, BRUSHING AND ACID DIPPING – no mess and no need to get all the tools out
PATENTED FORMULA – only targets rust and will not damage surrounding, metal, trim, paint or plastic/rubber
GERMANY’S BESTSELLING RUST TREATMENT –10 year guarantee on treated surfaces



FROM A RUSTY ROVER TO A CORRODING CORTINA, AND A FLAKEY FLANGE TO A ROTTING RIVET YOU CAN RELY ON FERTAN – GUARANTEED. WITHIN 12 HOURS OF TREATMENT THE AREA IS FREE OF RUST, NOT JUST THE SURFACE BUT THE UNDERLYING METAL TOO. IT’S AS GOOD AS BRIGHT STEEL WITH NO CORROSION TO SA3 STANDARD.

Info & Instructions
Fertan is a complex patented product which completely destroys rust, replacing it with a bonded layer of iron tannate and zinc phosphate, a perfect base for painting. This surface is completely neutral and non-acidic. Fertan simply converts rust into an inert dust and detaches it from the metal. Having uncovered the metal it then bonds to the clean surface which protects it from further rust attacks.

Unlike many inferior products, Fertan does not simply coat or seal in the existing corrosion. Fertan’s double action dissolves the rust and then bonds with the metal to form a resilient layer of ferro-tannic non-soluble compounds.

Fertan can be applied to both slightly rusty metal and hard rust. Following treatment, rust that has been converted by Fertan can simply be brushed or rinsed off. When applied to bare metal Fertan produces a finish equivalent to the highest industry standard of SA3, normally only achieved using acid bath treatment.

Fertan is a thin liquid that penetrates well into joints and hard to reach areas, as well as paint cracks. Unlike like other rust treatments Fertan is harmless to plastic, rubber, chrome and other painted surfaces. It is only active in contact with iron, steel or rust and can be washed off any other surface using just water. It is non flammable and is safe and easy to use.

Fertan can be used to treat heavily corroded surfaces including box sections, sills, body panels etc. it can also be used on sanded or cleaned metal to protect the surface prior to painting. Fertan is only suitable for use with ferrous based metals.

Instructions

• Remove loose rust and scale if possible.
• Apply Fertan with a brush, roller, sponge or spray gun.
• The Fertan process begins immediately and takes approximately 24 hours to complete (quicker in warm conditions).
• Wipe off surplus and loose dust with a wet cloth.
• Fertan can then be painted or coated immediately but surfaces can be left for weeks or months unpainted if required.
• 1 litre treats 12 – 15 m2 of metal.

Note: they also sell Fertan at MGOC. May be more expensive there, but you can visit the shop rather than just online... I think I'm going to give it a try for the sills, and also around the side intakes where rust is appearing. (MGOC is only 5 miles away for me) I'd rather stop the rust getting any worse for now, then get it properly painted later when I can afford it! :blink:

Found THIS website. Will copy the text below too:

Dissolving Rust

With Caustic Soda

This process will remove rust, grease and paint from steel or cast iron parts. The part is left in the bath for 24 hours and on removal from the bath is hosed gently whilst being rubbed with wet and dry paper or a wire brush. The process is extremely effective if the points below are closely followed.

CONTAINER
Any type of container is suitable provided it will remain water·tight during use, Steel containers should have a plastic sheet inserted before filling plastic containers must be strong (i.e, plastic rubbish bins tend to split). Obviously, the container size limits the size of the part to be cleaned; large parts may be cleaned one half at a time.

SOLUTION
Carefully and slowly add caustic soda flakes into warm water and stir until dissolved. You will need approximately two kilograms of caustic soda for 20 galls (91.2 litres) of water. (A 2.5kg tin of caustic soda flakes may be purchased from any hardware shop). The caustic soda flakes, may be dissolved in cold water if you wish but allow 24 hours for your bath to start working effectively.

ELECTRODES
The part to be cleaned is connected to battery charger negative, Battery charger positive is connected to a piece of steel, say 3" x 3", You will find that a 3" nail is suitable for the positive electrode when the part to be cleaned is large (i.e. bonnet), otherwise the current will be too high for your battery charger (general purpose charger delivers 4 ampere at 12 volts). For both electrodes, a good electrical connection is required (THIS IS IMPORTANT).

ELECTRODE SUPPORT
At least one of the electrodes should be supported from a piece of wood so that electrodes do not touch.

DURATION
The part may be left in the bath for days with no damage but 24 hours is long enough for most parts.

WARNING
Under no circumstances allow the caustic soda solution to touch your skin, I suggest that you purchase a cheap pair of waterproof gloves. The bath should preferably be well ventilated and definitely inaccessible to children

Dissolving Rust Diagram

Bob Terry

Bibliography credits
Morris Register of Victoria Newsletter, February 1994, Vol 17. No. 5

With Molasses

Everyone has heard how molasses dissolves rust, so make a trip to the local pet food and grain store and get your molasses.
The formula is two litres of molasses in 7 litres of water. Put this mixture in a plastic bucket or container and partly cover to help stop evaporation. Leave for about three weeks, down by the back fence (it pongs a bit), until it ferments. It should now have a skin on the top, which should be peeled off. Now you can immerse your rusty parts in this solution. Leave for about two weeks before removing them, by then all the rust should be dissolved (use rubber gloves, long tongs, or tie pieces of wire to the parts before you start, as this mixture contains ACETIC ACID).

After removal, wash off the brown muck straight away with a stiff brush under hot running water. As soon as the parts are dry, treat them with rust converter and paint them as soon as possible, or if not painted, wire brush and oil them. This must be done immediately because surface rust will start to form as soon as the metal is dry, because it is so clean it has no protection.

Apparently the water and molasses mixture when left exposed to air, ferments and produces, amongst other things, Acetic Acid. This reacts with the oxygen in the rust and when the iron oxide (rust) is all reduced the process stops, so the steel or iron is not affected, but the surface of the metal is now virtually in original condition and subject to immediate attack by oxygen in the air and begins to rust, so must be protected.

The benefit of using molasses is that it dissolves that rock-hard rust that even wire brushes can't touch and carborundum cloth can't reach and by using arrangements of odd-shaped containers like old concrete troughs half full of dirt and lined with heavy plastic sheet, it is possible to derust larger objects that would not stand sand blasting.

This mixture will still derust for quite some time, (six months or even more).

Back in the 80's I used to work in a restoration shop. We had a heated tank filled with a caustic soda solution which we used to strip paint from wings, doors etc. The parts generally stayed in this tank for 2 or more days to remove the paint and any underseal. It did not remove rust. (We did not attach electrodes) Following the caustic soda the parts would be washed then placed in a second tank that contained a muriatic acid solution. This would remove the rust but care had to be taken not to leave the parts in too long as they would start to calcify and become brittle. This was a toxic method with the danger of chemical burns, and inhalation. "Cheap plastic gloves" are not suitable. We would wear shoulder length industrial grade rubber gloves, a long rubber apron, a full face mask and respirator. There are much better modern ways to strip rust, and I wouldn't even consider it today, particularly at home.