new rebuilt subframe

we have just finished a sub frame and engine rebuild for one of our customers.the suspension has been poly bushed with blue poly bushes.
The frame was soda blasted and then rust treated and then painted with two coats of rust and oil resistant paint.All alloy parts where cleaned and then coated with a clear coat.The upper manifold has not been placed yet as it gives us more room when putting the car together.
As you can see the whole subframe looks almost new,ne rust any where,we have included some photos of the sub frame before.
the next job is fit the engine and fire her up,we then start on the front subframe

Are you having a problem with attaching pictures, Daz.:shrug:

What rust treatment and final coats are you using?

I have 2 subframes that I want to prepare and rebuild. I really want to get them galvenised but just haven't saved up any money yet.

I am having problems with uploading and I realised I posted the same thing around 50 times

galvenising is the best way,but the sub frame would need to be stripped of every part. :dry:

we get the subframe soda blasted,its kinder then shot.we then use a company called frost.
we use a product called rust preventative paint por 15 then we use clear coat over the whole chassis and shiny bolts.BUT you need all the rust removed first.but it gives us a good finish in a short period of time and it looks good. :thumbsup: :yesnod:
NEVER EVER PLASTIC COAT A SUBFRAME.THE PLASTIC WILL CRACK AND WATER WILL HAVE A EVEN EASIER TIME OF EATING YOUR METAL :nonod:

In my long career of doing "stuff" I have seen some dire anti corrosion coatings and plastic coating is one of the worst. I have seen the water get behind the plastic and then it has nowhere to go and the plastic coating bulges out to form a sack full of water so it effectively keeps the metal surface submerged in water permanently.

I would often see aluminium components plastic coated, and they didn't last long at all, especially in coastal areas.

Galv FTW, but it is risky on a subframe due to the possibility of warping when they plunge cool it. I will be asking them to let it air cool. I will also be welding along the seams to strengthen it.

dazlightyear wrote: I am having problems with uploading and I realised I posted the same thing around 50 times

It's OK, I deleted the other 49 :yesnod: :bust:

Daz, Sorry to temporarily change the subject of the thread. We were talking about retrofitting EPAS to a MK1 MPi. You asked me to check for a brown wire tucked under the wing near the fuse box. There is no sign of the wire. I'm not sure if that means the retrofit isn't practical. My car is an early one (#3068/ Mfg. Jan 15, 1996)

Cheers,
Rich

BTW: I do like the look of that subframe! I hope to do mine one day when I get the motivation.

hi it is still possiable to retro fit the steering but the wiring loom needs to be installed.its easier to do then explain type of jobs.its a time consuming job rather then a technicial one.but it can be done

mgf s are easy computers are not.thank you for your time removing my messages,Next year we would love to come along to some of the drives.we will have two mgfs next year.My own and a demo car.so the wife and my 9 year son and myself can come along using two cars

dazlightyear wrote: mgf s are easy computers are not.thank you for your time removing my messages,Next year we would love to come along to some of the drives.we will have two mgfs next year.My own and a demo car.so the wife and my 9 year son and myself can come along using two cars

:yesnod: :thumbsup: