Centre Console Question

I'm just about to order a few bits to pimp part of my centre console. But before i do, and to save me [strike]breaking[/strike] taking things apart now, I'm hoping someone will be able to answer a couple of questions.
Is the bar (marked below) a separate piece of plastic that is stuck onto the backing plate or is it all one piece?
If all one piece, is the bar itself hollowed out? Also, can I access the back of it by taking out the stereo cage or would you need to take out the console?
As usual, thanks in advance.
Rog

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It's all in one piece and moulded, so yes it's 'hollow' behind, and you should be able to access it by removing the stereo. I've a spare upstairs that I could take a pic of for you if that helps at all??

I'm basically going to be drilling out the dimples and need to know how long a thread I will need on the 'bits' I plan to put through them so just needed an idea of the thickness. A pic from behind would be great.
Thank you.
Rog

hope they help...the plastic isn't very thick, only 1-2mm at a guess

That is ideal. I've just ordered the bits I want to use off ebay. Once they've arrived and all is in place, I'll post up pics.
It does involve electrickery so anything could happen.

well if you need any help i am here

the led man lol

if you tell me what you want i can wire it up and you just fit i can get the leds as well

cheers Mark. I've already ordered pre wired leds and some 3mm chrome holders. I was thinking of tapping into the stereo's ignition live feed so that they come on with the stereo. Any foreseen problems there I'd be grateful of advice.

Handy console pics. Thanks.

the stereo has a permanant live and an ignition switch feed so the leds will be on all the time when the car is running other alternative is to wire to the black red cable going to the oil gauge so only on when lights are on other wire connect to ground

Most head units have a remote on trigger wire, you could wire this to a relay to switch the LED's on and off.

talkingcars wrote: Most head units have a remote on trigger wire, you could wire this to a relay to switch the LED's on and off.

yes they do but dont drive leds on that wire as max current is avout 10ma if you connect the leds it will blow he head unit up

this is used as a logic high (+12V) to switch accesories on so the input to each accesory is high impedence, so little current flow

so if you wanted to use the controll wire then a circuit would need to be built contaning an opamp to buffer the current (the opamp set as a voltage folower but wil only drive 10-20ma so a fet will need to be added to the circuit so acts as a switch simples lol



if the leds are to bright at night fit a larger resistor ohms value

if you fit 5 leds and each have a 2.5v drop accross them then you wont need a resistor if the voltage is a constant 12v however if they are to bright try using a resistor fron 10 to 100 ohms as that will dull them down but dont forget you can get upto 14v on the system so fit a resistor just in case (1.5v / 10mA = 150 ohm)

so fit a 150ohm resistor if to bright try a 200 ohm resistor


if you use 4 leds with 2.5v drop then you work out a resistor for 3v 10mA = 300 ohms

hope this helps and dont confuse to much

MGF MARK wrote:

talkingcars wrote: Most head units have a remote on trigger wire, you could wire this to a relay to switch the LED's on and off.

yes they do but dont drive leds on that wire as max current is avout 10ma if you connect the leds it will blow he head unit up

this is used as a logic high (+12V) to switch accesories on so the input to each accesory is high impedence, so little current flow

so if you wanted to use the controll wire then a circuit would need to be built contaning an opamp to buffer the current (the opamp set as a voltage folower but wil only drive 10-20ma so a fet will need to be added to the circuit so acts as a switch simples lol.......

so a solid state relay.............