Low Fuel Level Warning Light
I miss the indication of a low fuel level warning light on the TF so decided to retro fit one. I purchased a kit which connects in parallel to the sender wire as per the link below.
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/low-fuel-warning-light-module.html
Here is the method I used:
I pulled off the fuel pipe at the filter and connected a pipe to a clean 5 gallon container, then pulled out the fuel pump relay and bridged the contacts (white/purple and brown/grey) note this circuit is live with the ignition off.
Pumped all the fuel out and put back in the tank 5 litres.
I made the connections for the control unit at the back of the instrument cluster, the screws that hold the fuel gauge to the cluster are also the electrical connections, so no need to go into the harness.
I fitted a 3mm water clear blue LED into the gauge unit (drill 3mm hole 13mm up from the bottom of the gauge and 10mm in from the right, fit the LED into the gauge with a spot of super glue)
Solder the resistor between the negative of the gauge and the negative leg of the LED (470k is the correct value for a blue LED @12vdc but it’s very bright, so I used a 910k which is a tad dimmer)
Then solder a wire on the positive leg of the LED, now drill a 3mm hole in the back of the instrument cluster and using a M3 screw and bolt the LED wire so the connection can be made on the outside of the cluster.
Just for info; I checked the resistance of the sender, with the fuel gauge disconnected and the 5 litres in the tank the sender gives 100 ohms.
Using method 2 connection of the unit from the supplied insructions (LED positive to module box) I trimmed the pot until the light just came on, then put another litre of fuel in the tank and the LED went out, calibration complete.
The module box has a sticky back, so place in a convenient spot, I used 0.2mm sq multi-core alarm cable between the cluster and module box as there is no current drawn.
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/low-fuel-warning-light-module.html
Here is the method I used:
I pulled off the fuel pipe at the filter and connected a pipe to a clean 5 gallon container, then pulled out the fuel pump relay and bridged the contacts (white/purple and brown/grey) note this circuit is live with the ignition off.
Pumped all the fuel out and put back in the tank 5 litres.
I made the connections for the control unit at the back of the instrument cluster, the screws that hold the fuel gauge to the cluster are also the electrical connections, so no need to go into the harness.
I fitted a 3mm water clear blue LED into the gauge unit (drill 3mm hole 13mm up from the bottom of the gauge and 10mm in from the right, fit the LED into the gauge with a spot of super glue)
Solder the resistor between the negative of the gauge and the negative leg of the LED (470k is the correct value for a blue LED @12vdc but it’s very bright, so I used a 910k which is a tad dimmer)
Then solder a wire on the positive leg of the LED, now drill a 3mm hole in the back of the instrument cluster and using a M3 screw and bolt the LED wire so the connection can be made on the outside of the cluster.
Just for info; I checked the resistance of the sender, with the fuel gauge disconnected and the 5 litres in the tank the sender gives 100 ohms.
Using method 2 connection of the unit from the supplied insructions (LED positive to module box) I trimmed the pot until the light just came on, then put another litre of fuel in the tank and the LED went out, calibration complete.
The module box has a sticky back, so place in a convenient spot, I used 0.2mm sq multi-core alarm cable between the cluster and module box as there is no current drawn.
Last Edit:1 year 3 months ago
by Badger
Last edit: 1 year 3 months ago by Cobber.
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- Cornishvillan
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I know what you mean... We'll done Badger, job well done.... Filling mine up with fuel and the display only shows 3/4 of a tank! Frustrating but that's part of the quirkiness I suppose :bust:
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Hi Badger, I’ve been looking at doing this, alongside fitting a mk2 cluster into my mk1 F.
A couple of things. What is the pot you’re trimming and what does that entail. Second is I see your connection on the back of the fuel gauge but what is the module and where does that white cased wire go to. I’m not usually thick but I’m having an off year 😂 plus what resistor are you using.
Thank you muchly
A couple of things. What is the pot you’re trimming and what does that entail. Second is I see your connection on the back of the fuel gauge but what is the module and where does that white cased wire go to. I’m not usually thick but I’m having an off year 😂 plus what resistor are you using.
Thank you muchly
by PipL
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I had an Alfa Romeo GTV 2000 105 series, it had a low fuel warning light that gave you @ 60 seconds to find a petrol station!
I also had a Volvo 265 GLE you had @ 50 km before you ran out of motion lotion….the Volvo’s low fuel light was definitely the more useful of the two.
I also had a Volvo 265 GLE you had @ 50 km before you ran out of motion lotion….the Volvo’s low fuel light was definitely the more useful of the two.
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
by Cobber
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- Airportable
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I haven’t seen Badger contribute for a while, however a few months ago G4WAM posed a similar question, I’ll look it up & find the references for you to look through.
What aspect of the mk1 dash makes you want to change to a mk2?
What aspect of the mk1 dash makes you want to change to a mk2?
by Airportable
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Fluctuating speedo ( checked everything so must be the head ), like the silver dials and the lcd display plus I’m looking into rear illumination
by PipL
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- Airportable
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That’s fair enough, I’ve had no experience of this modification & thus cannot be of assistance other than to comment that it’ll involve modifications from an electromechanical system to an electronic arrangement & there are devices which rely on speedo info.
It’s probably been covered on here before, however I don’t recall it. Do keep us posted on this as a snippet from your job could be of value in another.
M
It’s probably been covered on here before, however I don’t recall it. Do keep us posted on this as a snippet from your job could be of value in another.
M
by Airportable
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- Airportable
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You’ll have to go back a good four months & find post #201214 & I was correct the question was raised by G4WAM. I played with this system with my own designs but ended up with the Spyder designs (?) device.
M
M
by Airportable
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