Might I offer an alternative? If you run your wire via the drivers side
You can follow the bonnet pop cable & utilise the bulkhead holes accordingly.
I’m pleased to see that little yellow car on your thumbnail, welcome aboard, you have already sampled the rest of the crew; a better group of old salts you couldn’t wish to meet on a mess deck.
If you are intending to pick up the reverse light voltage to enable your system, I would be inclined to solder a wire on to the appropriate connector on the bulb board.
You are well advised to grind the top surface from the contact strip before tinning the strip.
M
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I have nothing dangling out at that side of the relay frame. There is the connector for the inertia cut out but the wires are brown & the connector is different.
The wires being red & black, the historic positive/negative is also odd on an original fitment auxiliary. I think you have a foreigner.
M
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Right Rob, I’m up for that as my car is the same but one year younger & I’m interested.
M
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We’ll Bugger me, amongst all the stuff we have to deal with these days, have we now got to come to terms with the Angle of Squawk!
I can only assume that the Squawk Squad will be hiding behind trees with theodolites to ensure you aren’t a deviant.
What degree of leeway will they allow, does anyone know?
Can I assume the datum is the prime meridian, magnet north will no longer serve if the divergence from the historic norm has caused compass manufacturer to relocate by 10* in the last few years.
What happens if the magnet poles flip. We would be flipped.
Do they offer retraining if your angle is off, a bit like the driving awareness course.
Just a thought, I wouldn’t want an Endorsement on the license we can expect to be issued once we’ve been gauged & measured for plumb.
M
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I’m with you on Bosch blades, these are the first fit on any vehicle I have to use, even the old Land Rovers have them fitted!
The blades for the Landy are 11”, which aren’t made by Bosch any longer, I buy one 23”, cut it in half & graft it & the spring supports onto the ancient frames, such is my devotion.
M
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I tried in my last post on the subject to convey the irrational reaction to the super lock “fly past” indeed I reacted in the same way when first I became aware; “get that wire cut PDQ”.
I have to agree with the fail safe premiss; no designers worth their salt would pass for manufacturer a product which would endanger either driver or passenger if there were to be a mishap.
Certainly the impact sensor should instruct any lock mechanism to release & isolate ignition & fuel but I’m thinking more of an electrical failure caused by a failed fuse.
This thread might run, it will be interesting & worth keeping up to date.
M
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The super lock conundrum comes around as sure as Halley’s Comet but more frequently & it usually has the same sort of effect as a fox in a hen house with panicked people doing the headless chicken run.
My guess is that it’s so infrequently used & ill understood that as soon as some problem is reported by a frantic member the panic flag gets run up the mast. It was after a traumatic event a good number of years ago did I disable my S/L as a knee jerk reaction, determined for it not to catch me out.
I forget about it until the frantic comet flashes past.
Problems will be few & far between but create an unhinged flap amongst the flock when someone gets locked out; it’s the same effect when someone locks their keys in the boot or the bonnet pop doesn’t & you end up breaking a rear lamp or shredding skin off your arm in the desperate attempt to get the bonnet open. That bit happens when you tug the boot release with too much vim, in that moment of annoyance, having an urgent meeting coinciding with a puncture on the same morning.
This is, as you know all too well the law according to sod.
My guess is the antipodeans will have a more colourful turn of phrase & I’m certain our treasured resident Strine will help in that respect.
M
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Disabling super lock, although better done behind the centre console, at the main connector, it can easily be done by removing the door cards, locating the door lock connectors (2, one 6 way the other a 2 way as far as I recall), pop both off the door & separate, this will make it easier, then cut the brown wire with pink tracer*. As I’ve said before I’ve fitted bullet connectors to reconnect if required.
* Please check those colour before laying waste to your wiring.
M
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If you can’t flog a nicked car to an Eastern European, African of Middle Eastern buyer then it’s very unlikely to be nicked. Ageing cars such as ours aren’t even blips under the radar, never mind targets. A chap I know in the village hasn’t locked his car since he bought it, he probably leaves the keys in.
It’s a Mazda 3 of 2019 vintage & certainly not a dog by any means, who would look twice when there’s an older high spec Merc SUV next door, all locked up , tracked & alarmed.
Gone, never to be seen again. The tracker was disabled within half an hour of being nicked, apparently.
In comparison with “modern” alarm systems ours are crude, they were designed for car theft in the late 1990s, that’s an unimaginable time ago in terms of “car theft technology”.
A tyre leaver under your coat plays a microprocessor equipped gizmo & a laptop; car theft starts at home these days.
M
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I’m unsure just what mechanism is involved in the super lock system. If running the lock motor in reverse disengages the mech, a switching system arranged to disconnect the alarm circuit & engage a momentary reversed polar pulse should resolve the problem.
I’m not advocating this, it is by the way of a thought experiment.
My S/L circuit is disabled by a bullet connector in the door, if I’m required to institute the system that can be connected.
M
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If the wires leading to the connector are blue/slate & purple /slate, then they are AC they are for the cooling fan motor.
M
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