Airportable replied to the topic 'TF immobiliser' in the forum. yesterday

Thank you Roverlike, that is good information.
I was prompted to comment by a recent incident with my daughter’s car, it refused to start & so a bag of tools was compiled & of on a mercy mission. I was used to handling the original fob & so when I was handed a pristine example to try my luck I started to wonder.
After five minutes in the rubbish bin searching for the husk of the original we were back on the road & a little wiser. The transponder is not much bigger than a couple of match heads & was tucked up away from the transmitter & so easily overlooked, even if you were looking for it.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'DZUS for engine cover' in the forum. yesterday

The bracing bars in the engine compartment, under the wheel well & behind heater controls were developed by Vehicle Handling Solutions to stiffen up the structure during the transition from f to tf, (possibly for the f Mk2).
The engine braces & wheel well we’re popular retro fits, less so with the heater brace as this needed welding in after a lot of the inside had to be taken out. Arguably this was the brace that made the greatest improvement.
I don’t think the original cover had the large holes, it can’t have as I remember working the 10mm holes, when I fitted a kit, although I recall the body was punched to accommodate.
Admission time; I didn’t fit the heater brace nor did I note any great improvement to overall rigidity.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'TF immobiliser' in the forum. 2 days ago

I have an early (ish) f, this was supplied without the transponder coil. Having to use the fob to re mobilise the car is indicative of either the fob not talking to the coil or the coil not listening. This irritated me to the point where I retrofitted a coil, once fitted it has worked faultlessly.
Have you changed the fob body recently? If you have you might have discarded the fob mounted chip with the old unit.
Our friend (sorry I have forgotten your name) recommend trying a second fob, this is an excellent idea as you would prove that network.
Unless you have two duff chip fobs & what are the chances of that?
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'DZUS for engine cover' in the forum. 3 days ago

I use a couple of Dzus fasteners on the drivers foot well fuse box, it was such a relief to get rid of those plastic things.
On the subject of the access panel, apart from the three hex headed screws under the speakers I’ve replaced the remainder with Allen headed screws, into the rivnuts I used to replace the pressed I threads. They can now be wizzed in & out with the wizzy gun, as the hex key indexes far better than a socket.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'TF160 for sale.' in the forum. 4 days ago

Is it staying in Lancashire or is it wandering further afield?
I’ll keep an eye out for it if it still live in north east lancs.
M

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Airportable replied to the topic 'Multi plug metal clips' in the forum. 4 days ago

Squeezing the spring clip to free the mating section can be difficult, especially if they are in a place where you can barely see or reach. Depressing the clip at arms length should be a module on the “World Strongest Man”.
I’ve taken to using cable ties in out of the way places; as I have cause to divide a pair I dispense with the clip & cable tie & donate the clips to my lad. His company has to use these as they are original spec & his lads have the same problem as the rest of us.
M

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Which ever way you decide to fix & subdue the instrument cover, do make sure it is easily removed. How you’re expected to remove the connectors from the display to facilitate its extraction is beyond me, I suspect that the amount of damage to the covers on so many of our vehicles is a direct result of mechanics hands rooting around in too smaller space. Trying to resolve a poor connection or a failed lamp could easily reduce the cover to a shattered version of its former self.
M

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To remove the central vent; a broad paint scraper tucked inter the bottom edge of the moulding & using the surrounding dash as a fulcrum, ease the unit out. Originally the seal was foam rubber but in all probability that will have disintegrated, so little or no resistance should be expected.
I have a flexible grabber (expect a comment from Cobber), into which I insert a small magnet, this forms around the curves with no problem. It’s a couple of foot long (wait for it) with a claw on the end, available off eBay & an invaluable addition to a tool kit. Especially if like me you use & drop a lot of stainless nuts & screws in places which are difficult to access
M

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Just push the screw back through the dash & it’ll drop into the ducting. It is then a matter of retrieving it; remove the central vent & with a magnet attached to a bit of flexible “something”, go magnet fishing by sliding your magnetic fishing rod down the duct.
I don’t recall any problems & little more than a five minute job.
M

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One or two nice nuggets there, a slight disappointment on the seven pounder, although the situation was retrieved by the Land Rover tool. It’s not a bad investment from Paddock if there are a few friends who might take advantage, as for me, as soon as the LR device was mentioned & the penny dropped, I now realise I’ve probably two or three that I could cadge.
M

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Thank you, that’s a great recommendation & at seven pounds worth having in the tool kit. I’ve fought with that screwed ring more than once & there’s every possibility we will cross swords again; to have the appropriate tool to hand overcomes the first (psychological) hurdle allowing you to concentrate on the job proper.
Last time I made a tin plate ring with a few rivets popped in & a pipe grip to create tension, it worked but as with so many jobs, a third & possibly fourth hand would have been useful.
M

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