Timing belt in right position?

Hi guys,
had a lot of work the last six weeks on our MGTF 135. First of all she lost coolant, changed a coolant hose. When bleeding the coolant system the thermostat fell apart and lost even more coolant. I decided to do the full job and changed the leaking head gasket incl. shim, skimmed the head, changed the rest of coolant hoses, new thermostat, new bolts, oil rail, water pump, timing belt...stop.
The timing belt was a real nightmare to fit. First of all I mounted the auto tensioner and tried to fit the belt - no chance. According to the relevant video I tried to fit the belt first to the wheels and to mount the tensioner second - didn't work also. At this opportunity I nearly ruined the thread with the original bolt. Had to rethread it and used a piece of threaded bar which I screwed in the head and put the tensioner on, held by a self-locking nut.
I ended up by removing the crankshaft and the camshaft locking tools, after that I managed to retch the belt (by turning the crankshaft) over the water pump. Suddenly it fitted!
BUT: when turning the crankshaft a few times and double-checked the markings, I found the timing belt one tooth wrong! Same procedure again!! At the end of this long day the timing belt seemed still to be one tooth wrong. Had no idea how to manage it better.
Took some more days to put all parts together (exhaust, alternator, starter), today was the day of the days: charged the battery, filled oil + coolant and: she lives again! No warning lights, all connections seem to be o.k.
I'm still worried about the timing belt. Okay, the engine is running, but the valves and camshaft rattle; maybe familiar? What can happen if the timing belt is not 100% in position?
Thank you all for your opinions! And: I'll never, never touch a timing belt any more .
Regards from Germany
Christof

Rough running and idle, poor fuel consumption, high emissions?
I don't think you can cause mechanical damage with just one tooth out, but it really needs sorting asap.

Refitting the timing belt really is a very frustrating job, but you just have to stick with it as with the belt one tooth out the engine will run like crap.
I have had luck by placing the belt on the very edge of the cam wheels and water pump. I put on the tensioner as loose as possible then push the belt over the edge, then gradually work the belt fully on over all of the wheels, then tightening the adjuster bolt.
I don't always get the timing right first try but you do have to keep at it as assembling with the timing out is really a waste of time. It will come out correct with persistence.

The idea is to keep the belt tight has possible working the belt on from the right hand side,bottom crank pulley first and then go round.........the belt likes to keep jumping off where you first started .........i used a few pieces of a cardbourd folded so you can jam it between the timing belt and the plastic timing case......and the final bit of introducing the belt tensioner was done without the bolt installed.............use a new bolt on instalation has this has a preloaded amount of thread lock.......essential to avoid paranoia after installation..............or use some thread lock...........the weaker veriety like lock and seal.........stronger compounds will probably lock the bolt so tight that it may snap before coming undone in the future..............always turn the engine a minimum of 2 times checking your marks come exactly in line........dont settle for anything other than doing this right...........after istallation is correct make sure you have a good seal on that plastic timing case ,,,this keeps the crap off the belt.........and importantly a good tension on the alternator belt.......checking this belt is in good condition has these have been a cause of failure has they wrap around the crank pulley......if you do use cardbourd to fit the belt do remove it after the belt has been fitted correctly it can be forgotten about....

Join the club it took about 6 attempts to get the one on the 75th correct. I was pulling my hair out in frustration. Let's hope it goes betetr when i have to do it again after swappign the lazy tappet and fitting the TF 135 cams.

Thank you all.
The engine seems to work o.k, if I will get any doubt I'll have to bring her to the mechanic who fitted the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump four years ago and let him have a look. As I swore: I'll never touch a timing belt any more! Everything else was do-able, but this job - never more.
Regards
Christof

It may be worth paying an hour's labour for him to check the timing marks for you and confirm that the timing is correct, just for your peace of mind.
Of course if it's out you can just say "Fix it then!"

I got a new bolt for the tensioner and brought her to the mechanic who had skimmed the head.
She still had lost coolant, so I asked him to fit the new bolt, check the timing belt and search for the coolant leak.
Today in the morning he called back and told me that he flooded his garage when getting pressure on the expansion tank. He tightened the hose clamps all around and tried again, found coolant loss from the head gasket
OMG.
He doesn't want to take the head down. He never heard of the MLS-gasket. He seems to be as helpless as I feel.
Tomorrow I will take her home. I'll put her in the carport. Than, maybe, I'll have to take the head down again. Can it be helpful to use an older style head gasket? Shall I first try to tighten the new bolts? Can I re-use the bolts? What would you try?
WTF. 10 weeks of work and hope now, and the summer is gone.
Thank you for all suggestions.
Christof

If your replacement head gasket came with a separate shim then it probably was an MLS(multilayer steel) gasket.

The use of this gasket is recommended as long as the cylinder liners are proud of the block. ie the top of the liners is just above the block surface.

If they have dropped it is recommended to fit a Payen elastomer gasket.(Original type.)

The head bolts can be re-used as long as they are within the spec. length. ie they have not stretched too far. I can't recall the measurement off hand.

How easy is it to check the belt position? I wonder if that's what wrong with Felix's rough running at idle.

to check the belt position on a mgtf is simplicity in itself......you will suprise yourself............the hardest part is getting that engine cover off..................has anyone on here done any mods for a safe but quicker release............i use a ratchet spanner but still feel ive been messing around far to long before ive even seen the engine

Changing the bolts on the engine cover to Dzus fasteners like those on the MGB is on my to-do list, but is nowhere near the top so it will be a while.